The Food Chain is structured around a simple idea: each chef we profile selects the next. This week we spoke to Yosuke Suga, the Robuchon protégé behind one of Tokyo’s most exclusive dining establishments.
In the last installment of this series, we heard from Da Dong, a culinary legend whose creations can be tasted at dozens of restaurants across China. By contrast, Yosuke Suga, the chef Da Dong recommended for the next link in our chain, creates dishes that can’t be tasted at all—that is, not unless you’re one of the rare few on the list for his invitation-only Tokyo restaurant, Sugalabo.
With a private phone number, undisclosed opening times, and an expressed aversion to restaurant critics and rating systems, Sugalabo has received as much attention for its secrecy as for the immaculately sourced, hyperseasonal French-Japanese cuisine on offer. But after spending more than 15 years as a protégé of the late Joël Robuchon, one of the world’s most Michelin-starred chefs, Suga knew that when he started out on his own, he wanted to do some things differently.
Continue reading
Access this and all our other premium articles by joining our membership program. Plans start at $6.50 per month and include twice-weekly digital features, access to in-person events, and more.
