From the fishing village of Edo to the global leader in Michelin stars, eat your way through Tokyo’s past and future.

The Japanese do not read English food blogs or restaurant reviews in western newspapers. Most have never seen Jiro Dreams of Sushi. When the 2018 Michelin Guide awarded 234 stars to restaurants around Tokyo—more than any other city on earth—locals appreciated the recognition but doubted the foreign publication’s credibility, skeptical that anyone but the Japanese can understand Japanese food.

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