As a food writer, I know that taste is subjective, but I believe there is such a thing as a perfect assam laksa.

On the hottest days of March and April, when I’m brought low by Penang’s hot, humid weather, you might think a bowl of hot soup would be the last thing I’d want. But a round of assam laksa is an excellent remedy for sluggishness—and many other things. And like most Penangites, I always have room for this beloved local dish, a blend of thick, round rice noodles, tender fish, and spices drowning in a fiery-red, sweet, sour, and salty broth.

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