Belgium’s beautiful north is in the midst of a culinary renaissance, as chefs and brewers refocus on local products and traditions through an imaginative contemporary lens. Guided by three of the world’s leading experts on beer, this journey takes us from the wild yeast of Pajottenland’s farm breweries to the fire-kissed creations of the country’s most daring chefs.
In the hands of the Flemish, the humble beer becomes a thing of wonder. Over centuries, Trappist monks and master brewers have honed their craft, transforming simple ingredients into spontaneously fermented lambics with a complexity akin to fine wine. And now, Belgium is in the midst of a culinary renaissance, as chefs and brewers refocus on local products and lost traditions through an imaginative contemporary lens.
Guided by three of the world’s leading experts on beer in all its gastronomic dimensions, this journey takes us from the wild yeast of Pajottenland’s farm breweries to the briny spectacle of Flemish horse-shrimping, from golden frites in Ghent and the avant-garde chocolate of Bruges to the holy sanctum of Orval Abbey. Light activity level. Meat-centric itinerary
Journey to Pajottenland, the home of lambic, Belgium’s iconic spontaneously fermented beer
Visit, tasting, and light lunch atone of the world’s finest lambic producers—Boon in Halle—for a masterclass on the evolution of beer, sampling from the foudre and going deep with Pajottenland’s master brewers
Back to Brussels for a visit and tasting atCantillon, the iconic family brewery where Lambic, Gueuze, Faro, and Kriek have been made the same way since 1900
Dinner at Eliane, Kobe Desramault’s new venue in the Belgian capital
Road trip to Bruges, the stunningly beautiful medieval city Victor Hugo called “Venice of the North”
Visit the avant-garde factory of visionary chocolatier Julius Persoone (pictured below) for a deep dive into cocoa sourcing, Belgium’s chocolate heritage, and the innovation behind Persoone’s creations
Achocolate-based dinner with Julius Persoone, as one does in Bruges
Finally: we make our way to Oudenburg to check into the guesthouse at the brilliant, iconoclastic Willem Hiele, one of Europe’s most interesting restaurants, housed in a brutalist masterpiece by Jacques Moeschal in the middle of a nature reserve
Journey to storied Orval Abbey to learn about the Trappist monastic order and its deep cultural and culinary legacy
Lunch at the abbey’s restaurant L’Ange Gardien, offering Trappist products made in Orval
Back to Hôtel Les Sorbiers for a pre-dinner rest
Final-night dinner in Dinant with a big tasting of the best of the holy Trappist tradition of the region
Day
7
GOODBYE BELGIUM
November 15 · Sunday
One last breakfast, blinking back tears, vowing reunions
Private transfer to the airport
What’s Included
All breakfasts, lunches, dinners, as well as snacks and beverages between meals
Expertise and services of our experienced trip leaders: at least one guide and one host per trip
Additional guides and experts from the region
Transfers to and from the airport or wherever you are on the day the trip starts and ends
Daily Roads & Kingdoms gifts related to the themes, activities and narratives of each trip
All gratuities for accommodations, meals, guiding or transport
What’s Not Included
International airfare to and from the journey (note: some trips begin and end at different airports)
Transfers on days that fall outside of the trip dates
Airport transfers on days that fall outside of the trip dates
Personal bar tabs (when not with the group)
Personal laundry or spa services
Personal travel insurance
Meet Our Hosts
R&K Host
Garrett Oliver
Brewmaster, Author, Enthroned Knight of The Brewer’s Fork of Belgium
Garrett Oliver is widely considered among the foremost authorities in the world on the subject of beer. He is the brewmaster of The Brooklyn Brewery, the author of the bestseller The Brewmaster’s Table and the editor in chief of The Oxford Companion to Beer. An original board member of Slow Food USA, he later went on to become a Councilor of Slow Food International and was the recipient in 2014 of the James Beard Award as the top drinks professional in the United States. In 2022, Garrett was “enthroned” by the La Chevalerie du Fourquet des Brasseurs Belgique (Knights of The Brewer’s Fork of Belgium), descendants of the ancient brewer’s guild.
Destination Guide
Eugenio Signoroni
Celebrated Food & Beer Writer
One of Europe’s most trusted voices when it comes to food and beer, Eugenio Signoroni had a long editorial career at the iconic Slow Food before branching out to write prolifically on Italian food culture. The former editor of the authoritative Osteria d’Italia and Birre d’Italia guides, he is the author of influential works like Il piacere della Birra and Cuocere and host of the popular podcasts Lievito Madre and Beer Revolution. In 2022, he was voted “Italian Food Writer of the Year” by Identità Golose magazine.
R&K Host
Roy Milner
Brewmaster, Beverage Entrepreneur
Roy Milner is co-founder of the revered Blackberry Farm Brewery, one of the most respected Belgian- and Continental-style breweries in the world. He is an owner and investor in 11 other beverage ventures across multiple categories, including whiskey, wine, gin, kombucha, and rum, and a partner in Launch Hospitality, which operates five restaurants, a hotel, and a commissary bakery in Tennessee and Texas. An avid supporter and member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, he can be found when not working in the mountains of East Tennessee with his wife and two daughters, hiking, cooking, writing, and finding reasons to open another bottle of Saison.
Where You’ll Stay
The Dominican
A Noble House
A redesigned residence that once housed the renowned 19th-century painter Jacques-Louis David, The Dominican features grand cloisters and high-arched ceilings that draw inspiration from the 15th-century Dominican Abbey that once stood at this site. Its refined rooms, atmospheric courtyard, and luxurious spa make it a peaceful retreat in central Brussels.
Willem Hiele
Elemental Retreat
Hidden in the historic polders of De Keignaert, a nature reserve of creeks, meadows, and wide northern skies just outside Ostend, this is no ordinary coastal escape. Willem Hiele inhabits a striking Brutalist residence designed by Belgian artist-architect Jacques Moeschal, a sculptural concrete landmark that rises unexpectedly at the end of a lane lined with pollarded trees. Once a private home, the architectural gem now houses an immersive gastronomic experience with a handful of guest rooms, where bold design, elemental landscape, and fiercely seasonal cooking come together in thrilling harmony.
Hôtel Les Sorbiers
The Beautiful South
Tucked along a gentle bend of the Meuse River, this laid-back country estate unfolds across gardens, orchards, and wooded hills in the heart of Wallonia. The restored manor house and scattered cottages balance rustic warmth with clean-lined comfort, while terraces and river views invite slow mornings and unhurried evenings.
I had no idea what a deeply moving experience this trip would be—far beyond just a culinary tour.
Dawn F.
Morocco, from Medina to Mountain 2024
The level of thoughtfulness in every experience and every afterthought was simply amazing. I am extremely grateful to have had Eugenio as our host.
Renee V.
Puglia: The True Dolce Vita 2024
The connections R&K has in the community made this trip feel like a once-in-a-lifetime experience that could not be replicated by any other company.
This is a week of the prime cut of Northern Italy, from classic Torino to the rolling vinelands of the Langhe up to the high mountains of Valle d’Aosta. The story of this region in autumn is the story of osterias and ochre forests, white truffles and big red wines. This journey unfolds easily, sumptuously, from one day to the next, staying in the finest hotels and drinking with the most renowned producers as we dive headlong into the Very Beautiful Lifestyle of the north.
Only five days and nights to tackle one of the world’s richest and wildest culinary cities? No problem. Here’s the plan: start strong, end hard, rely on our smartest and most well-connected friends in the city to show us how to cook and eat and drink well, Chilango-style. And we’ll be spending deep moments at the remarkable Hacienda San Andrés for a full traditional lamb barbacoa and deep dive into the rich rural and culinary heritage that surrounds CDMX.
