As gentrification pushes Lisbon’s historic neighborhood eateries out, a new generation of restaurateurs is stepping in to save them.
Over the past two decades, as Lisbon reinvented itself for global tourism and foreign investment, the city also became a textbook case of gentrification. Housing prices soared, and short-term rentals came to outnumber permanent homes in many central districts. Inevitably, the city’s rich food culture suffered. Longstanding dining establishments were pushed out of historic neighborhoods, replaced by the kind of international offerings that appeal to digital nomads and a certain cast of tourists.
But against that backdrop, a different movement has taken hold as a new generation of restaurateurs sets out to rescue the city’s old tascas—humble neighborhood eateries that have long served as the backbone of Lisbon’s culinary identity.
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