Greetings, weather, and dumpling wisdom: here’s how to travel well in Nepal’s busy capital.

Nepal’s largest city and its capital, Kathmandu, attracts all kinds of people: students, travelers, job-seekers, and entrepreneurs. They arrive here to study, work or do business, but most never leave the city, which is now home to an estimated 3 million people. I, like many Nepalis, came to Kathmandu for education in the early 1990s and since then have been a resident, even an admirer. Despite its many flaws, I have grown attached to Kathmandu, whose deep-rooted traditional heritage sits comfortably alongside its modernity.

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