Nepal’s indigenous Newa community uses all parts of the buffalo in their cuisine. This treat of tripe and bone marrow might be the most delicious.

In the ancient city of Patan—known in the local Nepal Bhasa language as Yalamorning begins with the ringing of temple bells and the cooing of pigeons echoing across its brick courtyards. Down the street north of the city’s medieval palace and past a series of brick houses, Bhinmaya Maharjan, who runs Nandini Food Court, opens a set of three wooden doors and lays out the straw knitted carpets—and brooms for sweeping. This is how the popular eating joint, located in the Swotha neighborhood, bids good morning to locals and visitors. The restaurant, which serves Newa cuisine, starts to draw crowds as the sun climbs higher.

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