When in season, the smell of Koryushka frying and the light cucumber scent of their skin fill Saint Petersburg.
It is hard to name a Perfect Dish of a city when that dish only swims through twice a year, once in Spring and once in Autumn. But the best things are often the seasonal things, and this is true of the humble, mighty koryushka, the smelt than make their way in the Spring, fat with roe, toward the headwaters of the Neva. (If you’re there off-season, though, you can still buy it smoked, dried, or canned.)
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