The look and small-town feel of pre-hype Lisbon lives on in the western waterfront neighborhood of Alcântara.

Lisbon’s recent emergence as one of Europe’s most popular destinations has changed the face of the city, replacing mom-and-pop grocery stores and local pharmacies and bakeries with sleek cafés and restaurants. But the look and feel of pre-hype Lisbon lives on in pockets of the city, particularly the western waterfront neighborhood of Alcântara.

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