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The R&K Guide To Edinburgh

Scotland’s fortress capital wears its past proudly—whether as a center of learning and literature, a treasure-trove of medieval relics, or as the stage for bloody battles and gleefully macabre folklore. Today, it’s a small, confident, and absurdly good-looking city, home to the world’s largest arts festival, rich with great restaurants, cozy pubs—and no small amount of whisky. Those who drop anchor in Edinburgh share a smug delight in having discovered this chilly, beautiful corner of Britain. Just pack a jacket.

How To Do
Edinburgh

01. Navigating the City
02. Live, Local Music: Who to Watch and Where
03. The Perfect Dish: Arbroath Smokies
04. A Love Letter to Rapido Cafe
05. Weird But We Love it: Irn‑Bru
06. GTFO: Eat Your Way Around Glasgow

21 Things to Know Before You Go

A History of Edinburgh in 10 Dishes

Walking Tour: Royal Mile to Broughton Street

One of Edinburgh’s many charms is that it’s small enough to traverse on foot, taking in the city’s beauty from all angles. This walk is a downhill trot from the top of the Royal Mile, through bustling Old Town markets and tranquil New Town neighborhoods, never straying far from a good boozer or a good meal.

Walk

Quick Hits What To Eat

Lamb and Cumin Dumplings at Chop Chop Owner Jian Wang came to Scotland from Changchun, and now makes what many consider to be the best Chinese food in Scotland. Cheap and delicious, especially at the 3-6 p.m. happy hour.
Dinner at Fhior Book a 4- or 7-course set dinner of fantastic and reasonably priced dishes made with hyperlocal Scottish ingredients, from halibut to raspberry sherbet.
Deep‑Fried Pizza at L’Alba D’Oro In a city with deep-fried delicacies and post-pub feasts as far as the eye can see, this legendary chip shop’s deep-fried pizza is perhaps the best example of a surprisingly delicious tradition.

Quick Hits What To Drink

Gin and Tonic at the Canny Man’s A legendary family-run pub worth the trip to Morningside, with cosy nooks, gravity-defying decor, Scandinavian sandwiches, and seafood.
The Last Word Cocktail at The Last Word Saloon This living-room-like neighborhood joint in Stockbridge has cosy chairs, a fireplace, and bar staff who will tailor cocktails to your tastes. Our favorite touch: confession-box grilles between the restroom cubicles.
Whisky at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society Head down to the Leith branch of this whisky society and enjoy the historic 18th-century Vaults building. Visitors are welcome to become members and get access to rare whiskies.

Quick Hits What To See

Camera Obscura A science museum and gallery of optical illusions with a terrace providing a better (and less crowded) view over Edinburgh than the nearby castle esplanade.
Dean Village A short walk from the West End, this heritage site of Tudor and Victorian houses on the banks of the Water of Leith is a nice respite from the bustle of the city.
Surgeon’s Hall Museum Edinburgh has no shortage of macabre history or museums, but this one run by the Royal College of Surgeons houses over 300 years’ worth of oddities and curiosities, medical and otherwise.

Features From Edinburgh

The City of Words

What a storytelling festival in Edinburgh can teach you about Scotland’s past and future.

Mission to Mars

Deep fried Mars bar in Scotland.

The Very Best Place to Drink First Thing in the Morning

In the 60s and 70s, some bars in Edinburgh got licenses to open at 5 am so all-night workers had a place to unwind.

Shifting Current

Scotland’s fishing industry voted overwhelmingly for Brexit, but as negotiations drag on, it might not end up with the deal it hoped for.

Old Man River

Watching a changing nation from a single waterway in the wilds of northeast Scotland.

Imaginary Lines: Q&A with Rob Stothard

As Scotland debates whether to hold a new referendum on its independence, we revisit a British photographer’s project in border towns of the UK.

Roam

The R&K Guide To Edinburgh

How To Do
Edinburgh

Quick Hits What To Eat

Quick Hits What To Drink

Quick Hits What To See

Features From Edinburgh

More City Guides

How To Do Edinburgh

Quick Hits What To Eat

Quick Hits What To Drink

Quick Hits What To See

Features From Edinburgh

More City Guides

How To Do
Edinburgh