On-the-ground travel intel from R&K’s most trusted fixers. This week: restaurateur Billy Wagner unlocks the tensions, contradictions, and pleasures of modern Berlin.
This one, for me, is personal. I first arrived in Berlin in the winter of 2006 and was so enamored by the city’s turbid mix of cheap rents, unbridled libertinism, and staggering history that I ended up staying for the better part of two decades, even as the rents spiked and the libertinism was diluted by tech money and real estate speculation (the history, of course, remains staggering). If you’ve read our inaugural print issue, you may have come across some of my own recommendations in my walking guide of the schizophrenic German capital of my deepest love and resentment.
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