Pleasure-Seeking
in a Deranged World

Walking Tour: A Morning in Bhuleshwar

Wander deep into the heart of historic South Bombay.

The neighborhood of Bhuleshwar, tucked deep into the heart of historic South Bombay, is a world unto itself, a sacred and vibrant maze of temples and rest-houses, animal shelters and markets. A walking tour there can, at times, feel almost like a spiritual quest, filled with worship, rest, and food. Expect to stray (as all seekers do) into wadas and wadis and gully-guchis (courtyard complexes and winding lanes), relying on locals—and some surprisingly solid guidance from Google maps—to direct you back on the right path. Straying by ‘drinking’ or ‘flesh eating,’ as the marble plaques of the century-old rest-houses will inform you, is strictly forbidden. Populated by Gujaratis and Jains, this is a neighborhood of devout vegetarians.

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