The Smell of Fish Heads in the Morning
The Smell of Fish Heads in the Morning
Fish Soup in Kaohsiung
Set in the northern part of the Taiwanese city of Kaohsiung, this bustling fish market begins its operations at four every morning. By eight o’clock, the majority of the workers are ready for a break and a meal.
As I was photographing their daily routine, a group of five workers gathered around a basket of discarded heads, explaining they were going to boil them for breakfast and asked if I would join them for the meal. We sat around waiting for the fish to be prepared. Taiwan beer (I accepted), cigarettes (I declined), betel nut (I accepted) and a strong rice liquor called Kaoling (I accepted) were all offered as “appetizers” before the feast. This early morning celebration caught me off guard; it was only Monday morning, the work week barely underway.
After half an hour of beers and betel nut, the main course arrived: a slightly creamy broth scattered with chunks of fish, tofu, and bok choy. It was a delicious pairing with the Koaling, erasing some of the sting produced by the harsh liquor. The soup packed plenty of salt, but the chunks of tofu and bok choy balanced it out and made for a wonderful breakfast. As always, I was humbled by the Taiwanese hospitality and kindness.