Primetime Emmy
& James Beard Award Winner

  • A TALE OF TWO CITIES

    Osaka to Kyoto:
    A Kansai Pilgrimage

    Nov 13-20, 2025

    ?

    Before there were foodies, there was Kansai. There was Osaka and Kyoto, a one-two combination of totemic culinary excellence that has forever shaped the art of eating. Nearly a decade after his book on Japan with Anthony Bourdain took readers inside the secret rhythms of the country’s food culture, Matt Goulding returns to the source.

    Matt Goulding

    R&K Host

    R&K Co-founder, Writer, Producer
    Matt Goulding

    Yuko Suzuki

    Local Guide

    Culinary Connector
    Yuko Suzuki

Overview

Osaka to Kyoto:
A Kansai Pilgrimage

Before there were foodies, there was Kansai. There was Osaka and Kyoto, a one-two combination of totemic culinary excellence that has forever shaped the art of eating. Nearly a decade after his book on Japan with Anthony Bourdain took readers inside the secret rhythms of the country’s food culture, Matt Goulding returns to the source. This journey traces a personal and culinary arc through western Japan—Osaka, Kyoto, and the mountain villages in between—guided by the chefs, artisans, and fixers who have helped inspire a 15-year love for the region.

Over seven days, we’ll explore Japan’s deep craft: forging knives in Sakai, foraging in the Kyoto countryside, dawn market runs, chasing the perfect donburi. There will be temple feasts and back-alley yakitori, tea ceremonies and sake-fueled dinners that stretch late into the night, each encounter a window into one of the world’s great food cultures. Light activity level. Seafood-centric itinerary.

  • Japan
  • Nov 13-20, 2025
  • from $13,100
Map
  • Japan
  • Nov 13-20, 2025
  • from $13,100
Osaka to Kyoto: A Kansai Pilgrimage Sold Out

DISCOVER JAPAN:
Day-to-Day Itinerary

Day
1

WELCOME TO OSAKA

  • November 13  ·  Thursday
  • Zentis Osaka
  • Osaka Prefecture, Osaka, Kita-ku Dojimahama 1-4-26, Japan
  • +81 6-4796-0111
  • Private transfer to Zentis Osaka, our home in the city long known as the “kitchen of Japan”
  • Welcome cocktails at the hotel bar with your hosts
  • Dinner at quintessential Wayousake Matsuken, a 12-seat counter run by a big-hearted husband-wife duo: binchotan-grilled eel, chicken neck yakitori, seasonal vegetables, and serious sake
Day
2

THE KITCHEN OF JAPAN

  • November 14  ·  Friday
  • Zentis Osaka
  • Osaka Prefecture, Osaka, Kita-ku Dojimahama 1-4-26, Japan
  • +81 6-4796-0111
  • Travel to Sakai, Japan’s historic knife-making city, to begin our daylong celebration of shokunin, those singularly focused specialists that drive so much of the country’s food culture
  • Explore the craft of Japanese knife-making at ground zero for Japan’s blade culture. Guests will learn how to sharpen knives the traditional way from one of Sakai’s master sharpeners
  • Lunch of seasonal anago (saltwater eel) bento in a private tea room located in lush Ohama Park
  • Relax at the hotel, or put our Osaka Food & Shopping map to the test for a few hours
  • Counter takeover at Yakiniku Yacchan, a small husband-and-wife grill specializing in Osaka beef
  • In classic Osaka fashion, tonight’s movable feast continues on at Teppan Yarou, a raucous snack bar dispensing street food classics and heroic hospitality
Day
3

OSAKA IN OSAKAN

  • November 15  ·  Saturday
  • Zentis Osaka
  • Osaka Prefecture, Osaka, Kita-ku Dojimahama 1-4-26, Japan
  • +81 6-4796-0111
  • We’re keeping today’s breakfast light, as we have a serious day of eating in front of us (optional: a walk with Matt to Osaka Castle)
  • Take in classic Japanese cafe culture at Marufuku Coffee Shop, a centuries-old kissaten
  • Counter takeover at Tonkatsu Koushirou, where in the hands of our friend Chef Yuji Kawabata, the relatively humble tonkatsu transforms into an omakase-style exploration of the potential of pig
  • Depachika deep dive: a journey into the belly of Japanese food culture. We head to the basements of two famous department stores to take in the full spectrum of Japanese ingredients, from an extensive whisky and sake collections to rice that can be polished on the spot. Bring an extra suitcase for this stop alone
  • Dinner at Koala Shokudo, where Koala-san shows us the art of the teppan—the flattop griddle at the heart of Osaka’s street food culture
Day
4

CLOUD-COVERED SANCTUARY

  • November 16  ·  Sunday
  • Ryokan Monjusou
  • 510 Monju, Miyazu, Kyoto 626-0001, Japan
  • +81772227111
  • Checkout, say goodbye to Osaka
  • Travel to Kyotango, Kyoto’s coastal peninsula famous for its seafood, its old school fishing villages, and its sprawling coastal views. We’ll spend 24 hours taking in the rhythms and rituals of rural Japan
  • Explore the full expanse of Kyotango on a boat ride with a local fisherman, starting in postcard fishing vllage of Ine, and making a few special stops along the way
  • Arrive in Miyazu, where we settle into tonight’s accommodation: Ryokan Monjusou, one of Kyotango’s top ryokans
  • Contemplative soak in the hot springs at the ryokan’s private ofuro, or stroll through the village temples and along the famous coastal path that runs out of town
  • Tonight’s dinner is a celebration of Kyotango’s seafood super stars. Come bathed, hungry, and dressed in a yukata for an easy transition from feast to slumber
Day
5

KYOTO BOUND

  • November 17  ·  Monday
  • Ace Hotel Kyoto
  • 245-2 Kurumayacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8185, Japan
  • +81 75-229-9000
  • Remember that long feast you had in your robe last night? Well, here’s another round, only for breakfast this time. Take in the full sensorial experience of a traditional ryokan breakfast
  • After breakfast, take a chairlift to the top of Mount Monju, a small but potent climb that affords one of Japan’s “three greatest views”
  • Light lunch of local, seasonal ingredients at a roadside station on the way to Kyoto city
  • Arrive in Kyoto, the original slow food capital, check in at the Ace Hotel, and settle into one of the most magical cities on the planet
  • Sake and ceramics at one of our favorite corners in the city, Robert Yellin Yakimono Gallery, where Robert will take us on a storytelling tour through Japanese craft
  • Head along the beautiful Philosopher’s Path to dinner at Farmoon, an invite-only restaurant from chef Masayou Funakoshi, celebrating the best of Kyoto’s vaunted seasonal ingredients
Day
6

GOOD SPIRITS

  • November 18  ·  Tuesday
  • Ace Hotel Kyoto
  • 245-2 Kurumayacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8185, Japan
  • +81 75-229-9000
  • Head to Kyoto’s wholesale fish market
  • Market run with Toshio Matsuno, one of Kyoto’s top kaiseki chefs. Take in the full breadth of Kansai’s aquatic offerings, sampling a few of the goods before buying ingredients for today’s lunch
  • This morning’s market haul makes its way to a farm run by Toshio’s sister, where we’ll harvest some vegetables and prepare lunch together
  • Dinner at Torisho Sai, a binchontan-scented love letter to the humble chicken—proof that few things in life rival world-class yakitori
  • Post-prandial private tasting with the world-class whisky whisperer Ionna Morelli, owner of Bar Gyu in Hokkaido
Day
7

THE MAGIC OF MATSU

  • November 19  ·  Wednesday
  • Ace Hotel Kyoto
  • 245-2 Kurumayacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8185, Japan
  • +81 75-229-9000
  • Cleanse our souls from last night’s indulgences with a late-morning temple walk and meditation at Daitoku-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple in the Murasakino neighborhood
  • Lunch of shojin ryori, Zen Budhist vegan temple cuisine that forms one of the pillars of Japanese food culture, at Daitoku-ji
  • Return to the hotel to digest the big moments of the morning and prepare for our last night together in Japan
  • Finale: the full tasting menu at Tempura Matsu, one of our favorite restaurants here or anywhere, where chef Toshio Matsuno presents one of the most distinctive and welcoming fine-dining experiences in Japan
  • Head to one of Kyoto’s best cocktail bars for a postprandial, pre-karaoke drink or two
  • Afterparty: a fitting sendoff of karaoke, strong drink, and friends we’ve made along the way
Day
8

SAYONARA, KANSAI

  • November 20  ·  Thursday
  • One last wistful Kyoto breakfast at the Ace
  • Private transfer to the airport or wherever your journey continues

What’s Included

  • All breakfasts, lunches, dinners, as well as snacks and beverages between meals
  • Expertise and services of our experienced trip leaders: at least one guide and one host per trip
  • Additional guides and experts from the region
  • Transfers to and from the airport or wherever you are on the day the trip starts and ends
  • Daily Roads & Kingdoms gifts related to the themes, activities and narratives of each trip
  • All gratuities for accommodations, meals, guiding or transport

What’s Not Included

  • International airfare to and from the journey (note: some trips begin and end at different airports)
  • Airport transfers on days that fall outside of the trip dates
  • Personal bar tabs (when not with the group)
  • Personal laundry or spa services
  • Personal travel insurance

Meet Our Hosts

Matt Goulding

R&K Host

Matt Goulding

Writer, Producer, R&K Co-founder

Matt Goulding is an award-winning writer, producer, and publisher. His new documentary series Omnivore, created with Chef René Redzepi of NOMA, is now streaming on Apple TV+. His Eat This, Not That books sold over 10 million copies, and his R&K books with Anthony Bourdain’s imprint won numerous awards. He divides his time between the tapas bars of Barcelona and the barbecue pits of rural North Carolina.

Yuko Suzuki

Local Guide

Yuko Suzuki

Culinary Connector

Yuko Suzuki is a food marketer and consultant based in Osaka. She works directly with chefs and food producers to support their vision and build their audience. She also runs the very first Japanese food incubator, Osaka Food Lab. Yuko has been working with Roads & Kingdoms for more than a decade, proving a valuable guide on everything from books to short documentaries and now the League of Travelers.

Where You’ll Stay

Zentis Osaka

Zentis Osaka

Big City Energy

In the heart of Osaka’s high-energy Kita Ward, Zentis Osaka is a crowd-pleasing boutique hotel mere steps from the north shore of the Dojima. Design is a major focus here, with exposed brick and timber beams, a dramatic stone staircase, and sleek rooms that riff on “bento” themes with modular, functional layouts, not to mention floor-to-ceiling views of one of the world’s great cities.

Ryokan Monjusou

Ryokan Monjusou

A Seaside Retreat

Monjusou is a resort ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) on the shores of Amanohashidate. Located in the northern part of Kyoto, known as “Kyoto by the Sea,” Amanohashidate is famous as one of the Three Most Scenic Views of Japan. To truly understand the power and history of Kyoto, you need to visit its countryside, and Monjusou is our favorite way to do so.

Ace Hotel Kyoto

Ace Hotel Kyoto

Kyoto Cool

We rarely do chains, but this one is special. Asia’s first Ace Hotel is housed in the former Kyoto Central Telephone office building, an incredible 1920s structure designed by Tetsuro Yoshida, one of the pioneers of modern architecture in Japan. Two contemporary architectural trailblazers, Kengo Kuma and Commune Design of Tokyo and California, respectively, turned it into an eclectically creative lodging that nods at Kyoto culture while catering, affably, to today’s cool-kid jet set.

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