A deep, deep dive through Charleston history. Plus: coffee, she-crab soup, and gourmet cheese.

Cranes dominate Charleston’s upper peninsula skyline, assembling hotels and apartments at a lightning clip, but one section of Charleston remains more or less the same. The historic residential neighborhood we call “South of Broad,” and the commercial blocks above it, keep a slower rhythm, with a harmonious hodgepodge of Colonial remnants, Antebellum ostentation, private gardens, and gas lanterns that flicker even by day.

This walking tour begins and ends at the southernmost tip of the peninsula at White Point Garden, flanked by ornate homes above and the confluence of two rivers below. The garden doubles as a rookery for black-crowned night herons, so don’t be surprised to encounter a baby heron on the path trying to take its first steps.

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