At Suame Magazine, more than 200,000 skilled workers armed with welding guns and hammers make up the heart of the country’s informal economy.

There’s a word for it in Ga: nakpee. That combination of awe and disbelief that leaves you breathless. That’s what I feel when I round a corner in a field full of what I assume are rusting old tanker trucks and find a man standing on a massive sheet of curved metal. He’s staring into the guts of a half-finished tanker with a profound look of resignation on his face. “Light off,” says Kofi Boache, brandishing a lifeless welding gun to prove it—there’s another blackout. This is why the damn things take a month to make.

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