Filmmaker Nicolás Gil Lavedra skips the “Paris of the South” facades to map out the rituals that actually anchor the capital.

The Fix

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Buenos Aires wears its history in its skyline. To the millions who pass through, it’s a world-class sprawl of Spanish Colonial, Art Deco, and French Academicism—a visual “Paris of the South.” But look past the eclectic facades of the historic center and you’ll find a city constantly negotiating with its own ghosts.

Nicolás Gil Lavedra understands this friction better than most. As an Argentine director, producer and screenwriter, his life has been “traversed by memory.” He is the son of Ricardo Gil Lavedra, one of the judges who presided over the Trial of the Juntas, the landmark 1985 trial that prosecuted and convicted top military leaders for human rights abuses committed during the 1976–1983 dictatorship.

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