WHAT TO EAT: Pastel de nata at Pastelaria Aloma
The crowds flock to Pasteis de Belém, supposedly the original manufacturer of the Portuguese custard tart. If you don’t like to line up for your cake, get it from any small cafe on a main street outside the center. (Just make sure it’s made on-site by a place with a high turnover, so it’s fresh and warm.) Or, try the award-winning Pastelaria Aloma (twice winner of the best pastel de nata in Lisbon contest run by the festival Peixe em Lisboa) in the pleasant neighborhood of Campo Ourique.