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Without this guide, you'll be confused, broke and hobbled with food poisoning within hours of your arrival. Read up.

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Why Obama's visit to Myanmar is premature. An R&K report from the Kachin civil war

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Saiful Huq Omi's incredible photography of the Rohingya, one of the world's most persecuted minorities.

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With the help of one of our heroes, Naomi Duguid, we discover how to make the food one of the best parts of any trip to Burma.

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To mark Burma's big elections, R&K remembers the scene of the Lady's meeting with Hillary Clinton

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In this sweaty stew of dissidence and reclining Buddhas, hip-hop is king. R&K hangs with one of Burma's most famous MCs.

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Al fresco in Rangoon with the acclaimed cookbook author

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Talking freedom and Occupy Wall Street outside Aung San Suu Kyi's house

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In the new Myanmar, even beater cars can cost $30,000 or more.

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Shrimp paste, purple kryptonite for white people, is the soul of Burmese cuisine.

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This is, ironically, good news for the miners brought in to replace the locals, because the locals are still not allowed to mine, and now the mines won’t…

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Inside the pages of one of the world's most pathetic publications.

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Seen from one angle, the Burma-U.S. rapprochement is a sign of a bright new future. Step a foot to the side and look again, and it’s a sad…

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A visit to the Bethlehem Baptist Church, currently home to almost 100 men, women and children fleeing from the Kachin conflict.

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The dry genius of the ADB-ASEAN cost estimate is that it includes estimates for grief and human suffering in the aftermath of an accident. That’s $1,800 in societal…

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Inevitably when you travel, no matter how far you go or how different the people, your mind looks for parallels between your life and theirs.

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Rangoon is still not the easiest destination for anyone, let alone a staunchly conservative burgoo-lover from Louisville on his first trip to the land of shrimp paste. Some…

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Chew Betel, get high a little, spit a lot

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For the Western traveler, uninitiated in the deeper contours of Burma’s spiritual eccentricities, Mount Popa really boils down to one thing: misbehaving macques.

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Unexpected road-block in Burma: a plate of chili-slathered, rancid crab.

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The forlorn little shrines that live and die in the permanent shade of Rangoon's banyans are a particular fascination.

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The bad part about Zach Goldman is limited, really, to his peanut allergy, and also to the Giardia he had picked up in Borneo, and how it all…

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Merit, in Myanmar, is that little ledger you add to in order to push yourself further down the path toward liberation.

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