Roam
From Hanoi to the Highlands
Vietnam, the North
November 5 - 12, 2023
From the patinaed grandeur of Old Hanoi to the deep hilltribe valleys of Lao Cai province, this week is a master class in the vibrant present and the ancient past. Our hosts will be Hanoians, Hmong, Red Dzao, and the people behind Song Cai spirits, the most knowledgeable culinary minds in Vietnam’s north. We’ll track down the roots of pho from black cardamom fields to water buffalo markets. We’ll dine on blue plastic chairs down Bun cha alleys and private dining rooms with Vietnam’s most dynamic chefs. An unforgettable deep dive with the people who know it best.
Our Host
Chef, Writer, Traveler
Andy Ricker
Trip Guide
Activist, Distiller, Researcher
Daniel Nguyen
R&K Trip Itinerary
From the patinaed grandeur of Old Hanoi to the deep hilltribe valleys of Lao Cai province, this week is a master class in the vibrant present and the ancient past. Our hosts will be Hanoians, Hmong, Red Dzao, and the people behind Song Cai spirits, the most knowledgeable culinary minds in Vietnam’s north. We’ll track down the roots of pho from black cardamom fields to water buffalo markets. We’ll dine on blue plastic chairs down Bun cha alleys and private dining rooms with Vietnam’s most dynamic chefs. An unforgettable deep dive with the people who know it best.
November 5 – 12, 2023
Day 1
Nov 5 Sun
WELCOME TO THE CAPITOL
- Hotel Metropole
- 15 P. Ngô Quyền, Street, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000
- +84 24 3826 6919
- Private transfer airport to Hotel Metropole, the jewel of old Hanoi
- Welcome cocktails with Andy & Daniel
- Classic Hanoian dinner on Trúc Bạch Lake
Day 2
Nov 6 Mon
LEARNING THE RHYTHMS
- Hotel Metropole
- 15 P. Ngô Quyền, Street, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000
- +84 24 3826 6919
- Egg coffee and breakfast at the Metropole
- Stroll through Hanoi’s buzzing wet market with a tasting of the best market snacks
- Dinner of Chả Cá—imperial sizzling fish—a must-have classic of Hanoian cuisine
- A taste of Vietnamese cocktail culture at Ne cocktail bar
Day 3
Nov 7 Tue
NOODLES FOREVER
- Hanoi-Lao Cai Sleeper Train
- King of breakfasts—Phở—in the glorious delirium of an early-rising, high-energy city
- Lunchtime lesson in how to eat Bun cha Hanoi-style
- Free time in town, with optional shopping
- Dinner with the best of Bia Hoi snack and beer culture
- Head to the hills in style with cocktails and private berths on our luxury sleeper
train to the highland town of Lao Cai
Day 4
Nov 8 Wed
DAWN IN THE HIGHLANDS
- Hotel de la Coupole
- 1, Hoang Lien Street Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Sapa, 033000
- +842143629999
- Visit the remarkable Si Ma Cai water buffalo buffalo market, which foreigners can only visit visit with special permits (we got ‘em)
- Private lunch of Hmong specialties at the home of Vang Sin Min, our host. This is the heartland of the earliest styles of phở
- Transfer to Sa Pa, the blinking, blistering technicolor good-weird jewel of the north
- Swim in the gaudy hotel pool complex or relax in the in-house spa or just do cocktails
or do nothing - Dinner of Sa Pa specialty grilled meats
- Stagger to bed, full, tired, happy
Day 5
Nov 9 Thu
MOUNTAIN LIFE
- Topas Ecolodge
- Thanh Kim, Sa Pa, Lao Cai, Vietnam
- +84 24 7307 0899
- Wake early to head to the Red Dzao village near Sa Pa
- Roam fields of black cardamom, a key foundational ingredient of phở
- Forage with Red Dzao elder Ly May Chan
- Visit to a traditional Red Dzao home
- Celebratory Red Dzao feast featuring ancient mastery of black pig cookery
- Transfer to Topas Ecolodge, a stunning and sustainable paradise in the hills
Day 6
Nov 10 Fri
RICE AND RELAX
- Topas Ecolodge
- Thanh Kim, Sa Pa, Lao Cai, Vietnam
- +84 24 7307 0899
- Wake up late, no rush, no fuss
- Rice cooking masterclass with Andy Ricker at the resort
- Infinity pool, infinite chill
- Rice wine and rice cocktail tasting at the poolside bar
- Dinner of noodles, and traditional Red Dzao river snails and greens with rice wine
Day 7
Nov 11 Sat
BACK TO THE LOWLANDS
- Hotel Metropole
- 15 P. Ngô Quyền, Street, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000
- +84 24 3826 6919
- Wake slowly in Topas Ecolodge
- Swim, sulk, smile, say farewell to the mountains you’ve come to love
- Transfer to Hanoi with halfway northern Vietnamese lunch stop
- Last night epic farewell meal: a private dining experience with one of Vietnam’s most creative chefs, Bao La
Day 8
Nov 13 Mon
GOODBYE HANOI
- One last breakfast at the Hotel Metropole
- One last egg coffee and Bun cha
- Private transfer to Hanoi Airport