WHAT TO EAT: Empada de galinha or espinafres at the Graça viewpoint café [Esplanada Igreja da Graça]
These small, homemade chicken or spinach pies are sold in outdoor kiosks and bakeries all over the city, and are great for an energy boost after walking up hills. Many of Lisbon’s miradoures—viewpoints—have kiosks serving drinks and snacks: Esplanada Igreja da Graça is particularly spacious and, unusually, also open at night, even in the winter.
