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The R&K Guide To Kathmandu

The pot at the end of the rainbow for 18th-century hill kings, flower children, and Maoist rebels alike, the Kathmandu Valley retains a fascination for travelers dreaming of the East as well as Nepalis seeking the West. The city is a still-untidy mashup of three city-states from the golden age of Newar civilization. But for every chaotic intersection or slick shopping mall, there are a dozen moss-lined courtyards and shrines to explore. Modern Kathmandu turns out bibimbap and baba ganoush with as much panache as it does momo and curries, but the allure of the valley of temples is unchanged. Let us guide you there.

How To Do
Kathmandu

01. 16 Things to Know Before You Go
02. Navigate the Messy International Airport
03. Getting Online in Kathmandu
04. Your City Soundtrack
05. A Love Letter to Raksi
06. GTFO: A Day in Patan
07. How to Escape from Kathmandu—in Kathmandu

Kathmandu’s history in 11 dishes

The Perfect Dish: Sapoo Mhicha

A walking tour of Thamel

Thamel started off as a medieval site of Buddhist learning, but by the turn of the millennium, it had mutated into a red-light sandpit for an unholy trinity of thugs, dirty cops, and ex-rebels. Since then, it’s cleaned up its image and braced itself to welcome not just the usual backpacker crowd, but well-heeled visitors to new deluxe hotels as well as a wave of Chinese tourists.

Eat, Walk, Drink

Quick Hits What To Eat

Boar Belly and Lukla Beans at Le Sherpa Come for the succulent boar belly, and stay for a classy Sherpa hospitality. It’s a perfect place for a quiet lunch or a special dinner, where the chefs surprise you with their take on Western dishes with local ingredients.
Jhol Momo at Le Trio Think momos. Now think momos immersed in a sauce bursting with flavors. Order a bowl of buffalo or chicken momo as you take in the scenery of the former palace compound from the roof. It’s so good you might order another round of those soupy dumplings.
Goat Curry and Rice at Jimbu Thakali A wide plate with a mountain of rice in the middle, surrounded by lentils, pickled radish, crispy sauteed potatoes, and a bowl of goat curry. It comes with a fragrant scoop of ghee—don’t deny it.

Quick Hits What To Drink

Chiya, everywhere Get yourself a cup of milk tea, “chiya” (not “chai”!), brewed with or without spices at most local tea shops in town. The waitress will nod sympathetically at you, and might even brew it herself if you ask nicely.
Pastis at Chez Caroline After seeing the sights, you could kill several birds so to speak by stopping at Babar Mahal Revisited to see an old restored neo-classical palace which holds courtyards for ambling, gift shopping, and yes, a charming French bistro for wine or a refreshing Pastis.
Aila at Dwarika’s For smooth aged Newari homebrew, make your way to the Dwarika’s, a boutique hotel in the heart of the city. The alcohol poured into little shallow clay bowls will burn your mouth but will mellow your soul.

Quick Hits What To See

The Patan Museum and Café Wander through the centuries-old Patan Square, on through to the museum, and then to the incredible café, both restored with the help of the Austrian Government and architect Götz Hagmüller who in turn was inspired by the great Italian restorer Carlo Scarpa.
Boudha Stupa The Boudha Stupa at sunset has worshippers of all faiths making their rounds. Follow in their footsteps and then make your way onto any of the rooftop restaurants to make your own peace over a cup of your choice.
Thamel, with a stop at Garden of Dreams Touristy but charming now that vehicles are no longer allowed into the famed streets. Have a drink and a walkabout, and when you’re done, exit into the fabulous Garden of Dreams to recover in a kind of heaven.
— By Sophia Pande

Features From Kathmandu

The best dumplings in the world

The Chinese influenced them, the Tibetans invented them, and the Nepalis perfected them.

Welcome to Whoopee Land

Inside Kathmandu’s new amusement park that promises an escape to a land far, far away.

Cartoonist for the common man

Nepali cartoonist Rajesh K.C. talks about making political and social commentary for nearly three decades and raising his voice against those in power—from the country’s (now former) king to a powerful neighbor.

A Quieter Trail through Nepal

Just 130 km (80 miles) east of Kathmandu, the Indigenous People’s Trail is a world away from the pizza parlors and crowded guest houses of Nepal’s capital.

Roam

The R&K Guide To Kathmandu

How To Do
Kathmandu

Quick Hits What To Eat

Quick Hits What To Drink

Quick Hits What To See

Features From Kathmandu

More City Guides

How To Do Kathmandu

Quick Hits What To Eat

Quick Hits What To Drink

Quick Hits What To See

Features From Kathmandu

More City Guides

How To Do
Kathmandu