SB Tang braves the wrath of one of Penang’s most controversial hawkers to eat a Malaysian street-food masterpiece.
In Penang, there is a legend of a lady hawker whose char koay teow (Hokkien for “stir fried flat rice noodles”) is as delicious as her manners are curt. Serious eaters talk about her in tones of hushed reverence. They say that her char koay teow is so good that she can afford to tell prospective customers “cannot wait then don’t eat!” Other, less serious eaters call her “the eyebrow-tattooed bitch”. I am here to taste the legend—the finest specimen of the dish which stands first among many in the pantheon of Malaysian street foods.
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