2018 Primetime Emmy
& James Beard Award Winner

  • The Ancient Towns of Erhai Lake

    Yunnan Forever

    Sept 7-15, 2025

    ?

    From the misty matsutake-rich mountains of Ma Pin Guan to the hidden Bai enclaves of ancient Silk Road towns, this is a weeklong journey through China’s most varied province, a biodiversity hotspot home to more ethnic groups than any other. Yunnan: land of mushrooms, birthplace of tea. Led by the Chinese writer Jane Yang and Roads & Kingdoms co-founder Nathan Thornburgh, we begin in Shanghai and end in Dali, traversing four ancient towns that ring the storied Lake of Erhai—culminating in an extraordinary multi-course dinner in a secret restaurant for Chinese chefs.

    Jane Yang

    Local Guide

    Writer, Entrepreneur
    Jane Yang

    Nathan Thornburgh

    R&K Host

    Co-founder, Journalist
    Nathan Thornburgh

Overview

Yunnan Forever

From the misty, matsutake-rich mountains of Ma Pin Guan to the hidden Bai enclaves of ancient Silk Road towns, this is a journey through China’s most varied province, a biodiversity hotspot home to more ethnic groups than any other. Yunnan: land of mushrooms, birthplace of tea. Here in the country’s mineral-dense, subtropical southwest bordered by Szechuan, Tibet, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar, a phenomenal cuisine reflects Yunnan’s dazzling diversity—rich in flavor and wild ingredients, spicy and sour, multiethnic and complex. 

Led by the Chinese writer Jane Yang and Roads & Kingdoms co-founder Nathan Thornburgh, we begin in Shanghai and end in Dali, traversing four ancient towns that ring the storied Lake of Erhai. We will meet Daoist tea-readers and Kung Fu doctors, masters of sour fish and bao, of rice noodle and hotpot, royal-descended defenders of ancient intellectual traditions and big-city transplants reimagining the countryside—all culminating in an extraordinary multi-course dinner in a secret restaurant for Chinese chefs.

  • China
  • Sept 7-15, 2025
  • from $13,100
Map
  • China
  • Sept 7-15, 2025
  • from $13,100
Yunnan Forever Inquire Now

DISCOVER YUNNAN:
DAY-TO-DAY ITINERARY

Day
1

WELCOME TO CHINA

  • Private transfers from Shanghai Pudong International Airport to our luxurious big-city stopover, the PuLi Hotel and Spa
  • Welcome drinks at the hotel with Jane and Nathan
  • Elegant Shanghainese dinner at the Michelin-starred Fu 1088, set in a 1920s Art Deco townhouse in downtown Shanghai 
  • Optional night walk to a local bar (or just sleep off that jetlag)
Day
2

HELLO, DALI

  • QingLu Manor
  • W56W+XMC Shuanglang Ancient Town, Yuji Island, Shuanglangcun, Dali, Yunnan
  • +86 133 1274 9363
  • Private transfers from Dali Airport to QingLu Manor, bastion of ancient Bai tradition on Yuji Island at the edge of Erhai Lake
  • Late lunch of XiaoLong bao
  • Explore Shuanglang Ancient Town
  • Dinner at QingLu Manor, our first taste of Bai cuisine prepared in the ancient way
Day
3

YUNNAN CHEESE, YUNNAN WINE

  • QingLu Manor
  • W56W+XMC Shuanglang Ancient Town, Yuji Island, Shuanglangcun, Dali, Yunnan
  • +86 133 1274 9363
  • Breakfast at QingLu, prepared by the family using ancient techniques
  • Explore the beautiful landscape around Mount Cangshan with a picnic overlooking the waterfall
  • Visit to a traditional local cheesemaker in ErYuanDengChuan Village to learn about the firm, fried goat cheese that’s a staple of Bai cuisine
  • Wine tasting of extraordinary varieties grown in the high-altitude mountain villages of northeast Yunnan at the foothills of the Himalayas
  • Dinner of Yunnan cuisine at Jixianghong in Shuanglang Ancient Town
Day
4

INTO ANCIENT XIZHOU

  • Last breakfast and goodbyes at QingLu
  • Travel to the ancient town of Xizhou, a birthplace of Dali culture and an important trading post along the Tea Horse Road known for its exquisite sanheyuan houses dating to the Ming and Qing dynasties
  • Traditional Xizhou-style lunch at the home of Governor Yang, a member of the former ruling family carrying forward ancient intellectual traditions
  • Check into Linden Centre BaoCheng Fu and meet with its proprietor, an American who immigrated to China in 1984 and has borne witness to its rapid development, opening the hotel in a historic residence of Xizhou Ancient Town 
  • Explore ancient Xizhou, stopping for a pick-me-up at Tian Coffee
  • Dinner of modern Bai cuisine by the chef at BaoCheng Fu, looking out at the rice fields
Day
5

NOODLE, MARKET, TEA

  • Breakfast at Linden Centre
  • Visit to a rice noodle factory to learn about the history and production of this Yunnan staple made from locally grown sticky rice 
  • Improvised lunch at Xizhou market, one of the region’s most authentic, known for its smoked sausages, baos and dumplings handmade by local aunties
  • Daoist meditation, incense, and tea reading by a gifted traditional seer at a tea room in old Xizhou
  • Open-air dinner of regional specialties
Day
6

WONDERS OF SHAXI

  • Last breakfast at Linden Centre
  • Private transfer to Shaxi
  • Lunch on the way with a local family in the village of Shilong to sample the famous local ham
  • Check in to the private guesthouse of Bai HuiZe, a former big-city tech entrepreneur who is now the center of a free-spirited cultural community in ancient Shaxi
  • Relax over beers at Bai HuiZe’s, perched high in the hills over Shaxi
  • Explore Shaxi Ancient Town, flush with exquisite handicrafts, artisan workshops, tea houses and coffee shops
  • Fish hotpot dinner in Shaxi Ancient Town, famous for its marble pots, mint-infused broth, and fish sliced to perfection by a former wood-carving artist
Day
7

PIG VILLAGE, MUSHROOM MOUNTAIN

  • Breakfast and coffee at the guesthouse
  • Head to the mountains to pick matsutake in their prime season
  • On to Ma Pin Guan village for a whole-pig barbecue with a local family
  • Chef’s dinner and party at Bai HuiZe’s with all of our friends from in and around Shaxi. Under a cover of stars surrounded by nature, we’ll talk life and philosophy, drink to new friendships, and toast to the deep past and farthest future.
Day
8

TEA AND QI

  • Wake at Bai HuiZe’s and head to a small local market known for its breakfast specialties, from wontons and mushroom noodles to cold fruit jelly soup 
  • Explore the phenomenal architecture of ancient Shaxi
  • Tea tasting with a local master and supplier for Michelin-starred restaurants across China. At his tea shop in Shaxi, we’ll explore the elements of smell, taste and Qi
  • Private transfer to Dali
  • Check into WuXiangJian boutique hotel, our beautiful home for our last night in Yunnan
  • Extraordinary final-night dinner hosted by one of the world’s leading experts in seasonal Yunnan cuisine, at a secret restaurant in Dali
Day
9

FAREWELL TO YUNNAN

  • Wake relaxed, inspired
  • Breakfast and good byes at the hotel
  • Private transfer to Dali Fengyi Airport or wherever your journey continues

What’s Included

  • All breakfasts, lunches, and dinners, as well as snacks and beverages between meals
  • Expertise and services of our experienced trip leaders: at least one guide and one host per trip
  • Additional guides and experts from the region
  • All transportation during the trip except when taking a taxi or ride app independently during unscheduled time
  • Transfers to and from the airport or wherever you are on the day the trip starts and ends
  • Daily Roads & Kingdoms gifts related to the themes, activities and narratives of each trip
  • All gratuities for accommodations, meals, guiding or transport

What’s Not Included

  • International airfare to and from the journey (Note: this journey begins in Shanghai and ends in Dali. We cover one-way travel from Shanghai to Dali, but you’re responsible for your onward travel from Dali airport at the end of the trip)
  • Personal bar tabs (when not with the group)
  • Personal laundry or spa services
  • Personal travel insurance

Meet Our Hosts

Jane Yang

Local Guide

Jane Yang

Writer, Traveler, Entrepreneur

A seasoned journalist who has worked for the Chinese publications Caijing Magazine and Tencent Finance, Jane Yang is the founder of the bespoke travel company WayBeyond. Her background in financial journalism, focused especially on eastern and western cultural impacts, gives her unusual depth of insight when it comes to understanding contemporary China. Her passion for deep talk, music, dance, and cultural exploration make her a perfect guide for this trip deep into the poetic heart of Yunnan.

Nathan Thornburgh

R&K Host

Nathan Thornburgh

R&K Co-founder, Journalist

Nathan Thornburgh, a former TIME Magazine senior editor and foreign correspondent, co-founded Roads & Kingdoms in 2012 and ran the independent media company with Matt Goulding and Anthony Bourdain for years. He is an Emmy- and National Magazine Award-winning producer and editor and has reported everywhere from Russia to Iraq. R&K’s League of Travelers is his latest attempt to marry travel, journalism, and la dolce vita.

Where You’ll Stay

PuLi Hotel and Spa

PuLi Hotel and Spa

Shanghai Style

We have one night in the big city, so let’s make it count. One of the first and finest luxury hotels in Shanghai, PuLi Hotel and Spa is sleek and opulent, with interiors of cast bronze, dark timber, grey Shanghai brick, and handmade stone. There’s a Michelin-starred restaurant and full-service spa on site, not to mention stingray-leather panels and a swimming pool walled in solid bronze.

QingLu Manor

QingLu Manor

Lakeside Bai Luxury

Set in the preserved traditional home of a family belonging to the Bai ethnic group native to Yunnan Province, QingLu Manor is a boutique hotel founded by an architect and artist from an old wealthy Bai family who maintains many aspects of the ancient way of living. Located on the innermost part of the Shuanglang Yuji Peninsula offering stunning views of sunset on the Lake of Erhai, its exquisite traditional design is based on the Bai understanding of aesthetics and culture.

Linden Centre BaoCheng Fu

Linden Centre BaoCheng Fu

Xizhou Mansion

Set in a historic mansion belonging to the late famous businessman Yang Pinxiang in the ancient town of Xizhou, Linden Centre BaoCheng Fu is a boutique hotel and cultural center opened in 2008 by the American expat Brian Linden. Its refined guest rooms, library, meditation room, and tea house are testament to the elegance and grandeur of Bai architecture.

Bai HuiZe's Guesthouse

Bai HuiZe’s Guesthouse

Shaxi Retreat

This six-room guest house is the private home of Bai HuiZe, aka Xiaobai, a Beijing tech founder who sold his company and moved to the ancient Yunnan town of Shaxi. Run like a boutique hotel for Xiaobai’s friends and friends of friends, the house combines contemporary design and local heritage, with rooms for music and dance and a big outdoor area overgrown with nature. Here, he has built up a community of artists, big-city transplants, and other free spirits who came in pursuit of a more poetic, passionate life. 

Wu XiangJian Boutique Hotel

Wu XiangJian Boutique Hotel

Dali Enclave

On our final night in Dali, we’ll stay at the stylish, well-appointed Wu XiangJian Boutique Hotel. Set in an immaculately preserved Bai residential mansion and gardens in Dali Ancient Town, the atmospheric hotel offers luxury comforts and amenities against a stirring historic backdrop.

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Yunnan Forever Inquire Now
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