Empires Old and New

Peru of the Many Dreams

November 2-9, 2024

Peru is a place where alternate histories live on. In the right light, looking over the same valleys as Inca Pachacutec did, you can squint and dream that the Spanish never arrived. And in Lima you can see the inevitably mestizo future, where Quechua and Japanese and Andalusians and countless other seekers arrived to tap into something deeper. To paraphrase Vargas Llosa, it’s impossible to know what’s really happening here, so stories and illusions become a refuge. We’ll follow those deep narratives and the people who tell them through this remarkable week of Peruvian food, drink, and dreams.

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Our Host

Scout, Gourmand, Resident of the Sacred Valley
Gonzalo Gil Lavedra

Trip Guide

Traveler, Fixer, Explorer
Alejo Sabugo

R&K Trip Itinerary

The secret to this journey can be summed up in one word: people. We’ll be hosted by the finest people, from Quechua pachamanca whisperers to Peruvian-Japanese alchemists of culture, alongside artists and expats and cooks of all stripes. We’ve selected a righteous slice of this legendary country, from Lima and its dramatic coastline to the Sacred Valley and on to Cusco, avoiding the touristed, embracing our deep connections throughout the land. Our trip begins in Lima and ends in Cusco (in case some want to stay on to explore Machu Picchu), so plan accordingly.

November 2-9, 2024

Day 1

Nov 2 Sat

Welcome to Lima

Villa Barranco by Ananay Hotels
C. Carlos Zegarra 274, Lima 15063, Peru
+51 1 3965418

Private transfer from Lima Airport to our Limeño homebase: Villa Barranco, a boutique luxury property in Lima’s most dynamic neighborhood, Barranco.
Welcome cocktails with Peruvian accents with Alejo and Gonzalo at Villa Barranco
First night dinner at LadyBee in Miraflores, one of our favorite young creative restaurants in Lima.

Day 2

Nov 3 Sun

Life in the Capital

Villa Barranco by Ananay Hotels
C. Carlos Zegarra 274, Lima 15063, Peru
+51 1 3965418

Private tasting of coffee and cacao with our friends at El Cacaotal
Lunch with the Matsufiji family, icons of Nikkei food in Peru
Siesta as the waves crash on the shore below Barranco
Early evening walkabout in the Plaza de Armas, followed by a dinner at a private house with profound historical roots in the city

Day 3

Nov 4 Mon

The Life of the Sea

Villa Barranco by Ananay Hotels
C. Carlos Zegarra 274, Lima 15063, Peru
+51 1 3965418

Morning visit to Chorrillos fish market for a view of the bounties of this ocean
Lunch at the iconic Don Fernando, where the Vera-Horna brothers are masters of seafood-driven northern Peruvian cuisine
Private dinner at the studio of celebrated artist Ishmael Randall Weeks, an old friend with deep ties to Peru’s bohemian community

Day 4

Nov 5 Tue

Into the Sacred Valley

El Albergue Ollantaytambo
Estación de Tren, Av. Ferrocarril 1, Ollantaytambo 08675, Peru
+51 84 204014

Flight! Fly into Cusco, then head straight to the Sacred Valley, with snacks at just the right spots on the way.
Check into the historical boutique property El Albergue Ollantaytambo, which we have bought out for our stay in the Sacred Valley
Light lunch at El Albergue with a siesta to get acclimated to the altitude
Explore the small town of Ollantaytambo on foot
Dinner at Alqaa Restaurante: an homage to pre-Hispanic cuisine in a classic Inca house

Day 5

Nov 6 Wed

The Rituals of this Place

El Albergue Ollantaytambo
Estación de Tren, Av. Ferrocarril 1, Ollantaytambo 08675, Peru
+51 84 204014

A full morning and afternoon with our hosts the Weeks family and their partner as we explore their visions of sustainable life and cuisine, from a traditional slow-cook “earth oven” pachamanca to the rituals of Pago a la Tierra and their other beautiful projects throughout the Sacred Valley
Siesta, because of course
Pre-dinner harvesting in the kitchen garden of Chuncho, which will then cook as they always do, with depth and respect for the ingredients of the Andes.

Day 6

Nov 7 Thu

Mil Gracias

Palacio Manco Capac
Quinta Qolqampata, San Cristóbal S/N, Cusco 08002, Peru
+51 917 876 497

Early morning check out, head across the Urubamba River and downvalley
Spend the day exploring the refined, compelling vision of Mil Imersion, a project from one of the world’s great chefs, Virgilio Martinez, and his talented team of storytellers, magicmakers and culinary conservationists
Arrive in Cusco, check in at the beautiful boutique hotel on the site where the legendary Manco Capac once lived
Dinner at the MAP Cafe inside the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art in the company of local restaurateur and raconteur Rafael Casabone

Day 7

Nov 8 Fri

Exploring Cusco

Palacio Manco Capac
Quinta Qolqampata, San Cristóbal S/N, Cusco 08002, Peru
+51 917 876 497

Long, languorous breakfast
Market visit at San Pedro market, tasting local specialties like chicharron and adobo.
Lunch of cuy, the huacatay-infused roast guinea pig famous of this land (yes, there will be alternatives for those who dare not)
Siesta, followed by the final great dinner of our trip. Eat, drink, blink back tears of joy, regret, homesickness, newfound friendships, new understandings or general wistfulness

Day 8

Nov 9 Sat

Hasta la Próxima

Our trip has ended, dear travelers
One last beautiful breakfast at Palacio Manco Capac
Private transfer either to Poroy (for those wishing to take the train to Machu Picchu and extend their stay) or to Cusco Airport (for those returning home or to other destinations unknown)