From Lebanon to Palestine, a small but vibrant craft beer movement is emerging—and disrupting the culture.

Jamil Haddad, owner of Colonel brewery in his hometown of Batroun, a rocky stretch on the northern Lebanese coast with great fish and surfing, was 16 years old when he stole his parents’ car to make alcohol for the first time. He drove to Tripoli, the nearest city, and bought 1,000 empty bottles. It was days before Christmas and many of the people of his town served shots of liqueur to guests during the holidays. He made liqueur flavored with mint, banana, and Irish crème. He sold all the bottles within days for $5,000, which was $1,000 more than what he needed for surf gear, the real reason he was hawking bootleg liqueur.

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