Even those who think they know Amman likely don’t. It is a constantly-evolving refuge of a city for millions of people, who have made this once small town into a diverse, complex place. Ancient and otherworldly on one street, modern and consumerist just around the corner. And for all its signs of the past, from politics to architecture, Amman is kept alive by its young people, bursting with questions and ideas and cellphone memes and salutations. Welcome to an old city that feels very young at heart.