Japan’s homegrown foreign cuisine—or is it foreign homegrown cuisine?—is finally getting its due as a perfectly indigenous and brilliant food in its own right.
The interior of a Japanese Denny’s is like every chain restaurant in the world. Leatherette booths line the walls. Muzak plays softly overhead. A happy, warm fluorescence fuels the place around the clock. The clearest sign that you’re not in the United States is the sound of the staff calling irrashaimase (or ‘welcome’) and arigato gozaimasu (‘thank you’) to diners as they come and go.
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