2018 Primetime Emmy
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Packing All the Delightful Energy of Spain Into a Single Meal

Packing All the Delightful Energy of Spain Into a Single Meal

Churros Con Choco in Spain

Ferry Horns or Sheep Horns?

The melodious crowing of roosters encouraged me to rise early at my temporary casa on the Spanish coast. I start packing, hearing the horns of the ocean steamers traveling through the air from the harbor of Malaga. Or is it my imagination? It could just be the excitement and anticipation about my upcoming trip by ferry to Melilla, from where I plan to continue on a road trip into Morocco.

With a light stride I descend the hill via a labyrinth of small, winding roads guarded by colorful potted plants, while the early morning sky opens up with the promise of a sunny day. I reach a local churreria that I spotted the day before and I sit down with only one thing on my mind: eating churros con choco.

I settled myself next to a table where two love birds in their seventies flirt, all the while laughing, teasing, and planting small kisses on each others’ cheeks. Locals carry bags filled with fresh vegetables and groceries, cheerfully making a stop at the diner to indulge in this traditional sweetness.

There are few things more typically Spanish than churros con choco. The piped stripes of deep-fried dough are made of a mixture of flour, a pinch of salt, and some oil. The hot cup of choco needs no explanation.

The origin of churros is not clear, it is said that the Portuguese brought the art of making churros to Europe after exploring China in the 16th century; some say it was during the 1920s that churros were coupled with chocolate.

Another theory is that Spanish shepherds invented churros centuries ago, as high up in the mountains freshly baked goods were not available. So the shepherds came up with a cylindrical daily staple, which could easily be fried in a pan over an open fire. They named the fritter after Navajo-Churro sheep, as the horns of these sheep look similar to the fried pastry.

While I dip my churro in a mug of thick, sweet, and delicious hot chocolate, time passes slowly. An energetic nurse arrives with her elderly patient in a wheelchair. A man takes a seat with his puppy. A grandmother walking past with her two grandchildren is forced to stop, as the children want to play with the enthusiastic puppy. Passersby are chatting and singing, while a salesman is showing all the customers a basket filled with fresh salmon for sale. Hombre! a man shouts when he spots a friend on the other side of the road and happily invites him to join for a churro con choco.

All the delightful energy of Spain comes together in this small churreria, where customers from all walks of life begin their day with churro con choco, as do I.

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