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When Roads & Kingdoms asks for a slogan for his city, Mogadishu’s mayor says it’s “no longer the most dangerous city in the world”. He is determined to prove it.

Roads & Kingdoms contributors Nastasya Tay and Daniel Howden went for a late-night drive with the Minister of Intelligence, the Mogadishu Police Chief, and a few well-armed friends. In all, it’s a four-vehicle convoy, with twenty policemen, a truck-mounted anti-aircraft battery, and two foreign correspondents who are about to go… eat ice cream.

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