From nameless croquettes to Albert Adrià nature-defying olives, Matt Goulding’s milestones of a culinary courtship.

I came to Barcelona to study abroad in the winter of 2002, and when my classes ended in the early summer, I needed an excuse to stay in Spain. I enrolled in a summer course at the Escuela de Cocina Luis Irizar, a small, renowned cooking school overlooking San Sebastian’s famous half-moon beach.

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