James Beard Publication of the Year 2017

The R&K Guide To Saint Petersburg

Piter, as locals call it, is unlike anywhere else in Russia. Built over flat islands and hundreds of waterways on the edge of the Baltic Sea, Russia’s erstwhile Imperial capital is water-loving—a small, silver fish is both a favorite dish and a local mascot—fiercely proud, independent, and open to the world. For better and often worse, this northern capital was a cauldron of 20th-century Russian history on the frontlines of civil wars, the Russian Revolution, two world wars, and a horrific siege. But the city has always taken its reversals of fortune in stride, and retains its strong streak of political independence and Bohemian stateliness. What awaits the visitor now are cake-like baroque buildings in soft evening light, shabby-chic restaurants, and broad chaussées, with water running gently everywhere in between. (Visit our Moscow guide here.)

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