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A city in Italy embraces the dark side of food protectionism.
As Scotland debates whether to hold a new referendum on its independence, we revisit a British photographer's project in border towns of the UK.
A photographer captured the emotions of Euromaidan with cinematic images that blur the lines of truth and fiction
Can planting cannabis help clean up the land contaminated by Europe’s biggest steel plant?
Eighty years after the Spanish Civil War began, a small group of descendants is determined to identify the remains of thousands of victims buried in mass graves.
Young Icelanders are using a satirical religion to protest the lasting ties between church and state on the island
Step right up for venison, cheap drinks, and drunken middle-aged revelry on Sweden’s finest cruise.
As Iceland continues its Cinderella story at the Euros, Mark Franek reflects on six summers of semi-pro football in the country of northern lights and Hidden Folk.
Meet the French Hmong adapting ancient healing techniques for the modern world
At the ultimate outsider football tournament, the not-quite-official team of a not-quite-independent country tries to make its mark.
Built with its back turned to the Black Sea, the unloved city of Poti is attempting to reinvent itself.
Enjoy the silence, but always have a whisky stash: a cheat-sheet to the less-visited end of Scotland's Outer Hebrides.
Every year during Maggio Di Accettura in Southern Italy, an oak and a holly tree are joined in a wedding ceremony.
A Croatian shoe factory survives two wars, Communism and its own deeply uncool reputation.
Photographer Jeremy Suyker visits six countries in 10 days with a group of Chinese tourists
In one of Greece’s struggling refugee camps, food is scarce but distrust is plentiful.
Unlikely rap stars, important dumplings, feast etiquette: a smart guide to Georgia's capital.
A photographer visits the elderly residents of the Paris region's futuristic housing projects.
A Croatian photographer retraces the footsteps of a British writer in Yugoslavia to try to reassemble a country that no longer exists.
Watching a changing nation from a single waterway in the wilds of northeast Scotland
In Kosovo, a troubled nation looks to its Ottoman past for inspiration.
Photographer Karl Mancini documents the most mysterious and disturbing religious rituals of southeast Italy.
Forget Mykonos: Sarah Souli's intel on drinking, eating, dancing (and cursing) in northern Greece
A photographer spends time with the temporary residents of a hotel-turned-refugee center in a remote village of northern Norway
Photographing the makeshift constructions of the Calais refugees
During the Historical Carnival of Ivrea, revelers pelt each other with something much harder, and oranger, than tomatoes
Civil war has led to the legalization of a dangerous shadow industry.
How David Bowie became the loathed adversary of a Soviet-era youth movement.
In a Kiev pizzeria, veterans struggle to adapt to life away from the Eastern front.
In Italy, lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender pilgrims flock to the Madonna of Transformation
Hunting the fabled Cockentrice in Britain’s 1,000-year-old meat market.
Hitting the campaign trail with the long-haired, jeans-wearing, anti-austerity power brokers.
Tatars fleeing the annexed peninsula are bringing their culture to the rest of Ukraine.
In the limitless, drug-fuelled summer before the publication of his first book, the young writer Karl Taro Greenfeld buries looming disappointments with Europe’s drifters in Ibiza
Every year, hundreds of veteran cars make the legendary 60-mile journey from London to the seaside town of Brighton.
Europe’s largest fire festival might feature Vikings, Ninjas, and men in dress, but it also represents the soul of this remote Scottish archipelago.
Life hasn’t always been easy for Budapest’s Chinese migrants, but food is helping bring two cultures together
During new year celebrations, members of the Sufi order of Rifa'i pursue a highly painful form of devotion.
After a long, sad decline, a traditional fisherman’s soup is undergoing a renaissance
A photographer documents Georgia's only Motorcycle Club in their Tbilisi headquarters
Searching for signs of Truman Capote in the Spanish fishing village where he wrote his masterpiece.
How hundreds of refugees and migrants survive in a tent city between a Paris club and a floating restaurant
A gay club in Belgrade embraces Serbia’s local pop music in all of its macho, misogynistic glory.
By embracing the island nation’s limitations, chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason and a network of Buddhist seaweed harvesters, arctic char smokers, and organic barley farmers are reinventing the local…
When Delta ended its direct route to JFK, it represented the end of an era for longtime Russia expats like Resa Alboher
Twenty years after the war ended, Bosnia and Herzegovina is still the most mine-ridden country in Europe.
Once regarded as a symbol of backwardness, Iceland’s historic turf-roofed homes are making a comeback
During the International Military Pilgrimage, one of Catholicism's holiest sites reveals a different face.
Rejecting the nauseating mix of new age spiritualism and old age religion that defines the Camino de Santiago, Bert Archer embarks on the lesser-known Via de la Plata
The Syrian civil war has turned Erdine, Turkey, back into the waystation for refugees that it was nearly a century ago.
Bells, yells, and feasts - intel for the navel of the Mediterranean.
From nausea-inducing necessity to horrifying delicacy, the culture of cultures is a gross one.
A music photographer turns his lens to what was behind him the whole time: the crowd.
To salvage a disastrous surf trip to Norway, Eric Greene laced up his Vans to climb gorgeous peaks and embark on a cross-country trip.
For fifteen years Roma families displaced by the 1998 war have called a decrepit former correctional facility home
Every year, a historic and violent tournament is held in the Italian city, pitting four neighborhoods against each other.
On the eve of Lisbon’s annual sardine-and-beer bacchanal St. Anthony’s Day, Cara Parks looks at the uncertain future of a celebrated fish.
By documenting the Soviet veterans of WWII, a Ukrainian photographer finds uneasy parallels to the current war in his country.
After completing a powerful investigation within his country's police force, a Belgian photographer documents life in its prisons.
Photographer Eduardo Leal dives into May Day in Berlin, where revolution looks a lot like revelry.
Don't be a numpty: our guide to Scotland's capital from disco chip shops to secret tunnels.
Photographer Alessandro Sala documents the rigors of Parmigiano production - a cheese with many imitators, but no equal
A city of more than 50 shades of gray and Italy's undisputed drinking capital, our guide to essential Milan intel.
Bordering war-torn Crimea, the world’s oldest steppe reserve—home to zebras, buffaloes, and wildebeests—fights for survival.
The Serbian capital has seen a thing or two. From pork and coffee to Attila the Hun, the essentials for enjoying and understanding the White City.
In the Ukrainian town where Flight MH17 was blown out of the sky, 90 percent of adults are out of work, young men drink vodka on airplane seats,…
Photographer Liza Van Der Stock’s intimate project about a porn-producing family in Flanders was shortlisted for the 2015 Sony World Photography Awards.
Every year, the Vatican's priests, deacons and seminarians from across the world compete in a soccer tournament. Spend a week with the 2014 winners.
At the most influential Live Action Role-Playing gathering of its kind, the weirdest thing isn’t wizards or witches—it’s new-found fame
A photographer documents the lives of a lesbian couple in Putin's Russia, in all its brutal intimacy.
What a storytelling festival in Edinburgh can teach you about Scotland’s past and future.
On a fog-bound island off the Irish coast, trying to avoid the fate of so many other islands: permanent evacuation.
In Italy, grassroots cannabis social clubs dispense medical marijuana (and sometimes cheese) to ailing patients
Centuries of squalor and imperialism have given gin a bad name. But now, liquor stores are stocked with brands featuring fancy bottles, funky names, and one-of-a-kind botanical blends.…
The rabble-rousing musicians of La Solfónica provide a soundtrack to Spain’s many protests
Thanks to gourmet chefs and TV cooking shows, Parisian knife grinders are experiencing a revival.
Mount Athos, a womanless monastic republic within the Greek state, features hallowed rituals, the odd brawl, and occasional visits from Vladimir Putin.
Deepti Patwardhan reflects on India’s unusual and uncomfortable relationship with Europe’s darkest period.
Stranded on a floating glacier? This crew of Icelandic volunteers is here to save you.
At France’s Piémanson beach, families build cabins on the sand and wait for the day their paradise will be shut down for good.
Making Parma ham the right way requires an assembly line of skilled craftsmen. Photographer Alessandro Iovino visits Il Gazzolo Di Alberto Galloni e Figli, a producer in Langhirano…
As the city’s Muslim population soars, burial services are in growing demand. Meet the motley crew that ushers the dead to the afterlife.
Journalist Annabelle Chapman, serving as election observer, watches as the country continues its westward course after months of turmoil.
The town of Barentsburg located high in the Arctic feels every bit like a Soviet town stuck in time. Except it's in Norway.
Europe’s white nationalists, led by a man from Montana, meet in Hungary to plot over pints. It does not go well.
In Eastern Ukraine, Home to the World’s Newest Breakaway Republics, Nothing Is As It Seems
A Vienna guide from Schnitzel to Paradeiser.
Inside the bizarre subculture that lives to explore Chernobyl’s Dead Zone.
You've heard Scotland decided to stay with the UK. But have you heard of the Scots who want to join Scandinavia?
Independent or not, Scots will continue to gather in the highlands for feats of strength and other forms of absurdity
"We have the porn that we deserve,” wrote the feminist activist María Llopis. Photographer Katia Repina tends to agree.
Scotland may be about to secede from the United Kingdom - but just what is it about their southern neighbors, the English, that made them the most evil…
Ola Cichowlas returns to the Polish orchards her grandmother grew up in to find out how apple growers are handling Russia’s boycott of this year’s harvest
For one week a year, the hard-bitten Serbian town of Guca erupts with blaring trumpets, pig roasts, and a splash of nationalism.
Bram Stoker’s great-grandnephew wants to attract visitors to the remote mountaintop the fictional Dracula may—or may not—have called home.
Deep in Galicia, devout Spaniards who have cheated death in the past year are paraded around in coffins to give thanks to God and to the miraculous sister…
The memories of starting a new life in Greece, coupled his adoptive country's seemingly never-ending economic and social crises, form the basis of his project “Shadows in Greece.”
Echoes of a deported people can still be heard on the banks of the Volga - if you listen carefully.
Foreign correspondent Stephan Faris visits the island of Lampedusa, which is both a tourist destination and a grim waystation for migrants crossing the Mediterranean.
After centuries as an iconic Cockney ingredient, the always slithering, often jellied eel has fallen on hard times.
The Ukrainian Army has been sending young soldiers into combat without body armor or even helmets at times. Enter the ‘ants’—pro-Ukraine Ukrainian volunteers who walk army surplus goods…
Boat-dwellers have been living on Britain’s canals since the industrial revolution. Will their unique culture be able to survive Britain’s latest boom and bust cycles?
The city of Skopje is undergoing a Disneyfied transformation in celebration of its ancient Macedonian heritage. If only the Greeks next door didn’t argue it was their history…
Did the Haunting Landscape of Scotland’s Isle of Jura Inspire the Despair of Nineteen Eighty-Four?
On the eve of voting in the European Parliamentary elections, Britons have been shocked—shocked!—by the racist things their leaders say. But a traditional toy called the golliwog tells…
Someone has sliced open soccer’s hourglass, and the sand has come pouring out on to the streets.
In Bosnia-Herzegovina, football won't easily mend the chasms created by mortars and massacres.
Glaswegians claim to have invented the iconic British-Desi dish. But so do Newcastlers, Punjabis and Uttarpradeshis. Who is telling the truth?
For a glimpse of one possible future for eastern Ukraine, look no further than the frozen-in-time breakaway republic of Transnistria.
In central Moscow, a famous and slightly foreboding institution is finding new life under restaurateur Alexei Zimin
Carlos Spottorno's newest photography project takes him to the countries that function as tax havens in Europe.
Chef Magnus Nilsson returns to the remote Faroese island of Stóra Dímun, where modernity and ancient traditions collide.
It's been 28 years since the world’s most infamous nuclear catastrophe. For much of that time, a photojournalist has been returning to the scene.
What happens if the place where you live isn’t regarded as a nation by FIFA? You start your own federation.
In Jerusalem’s ultra-Orthodox Mea Shearim neighbourhood, feeding the secular and religious both.
After Turkey’s massive Gezi Park protests last summer, LGBT candidates are now taking their fight to the political arena.
Crimea’s future is uncertain, and so is the future of its two most storied and successful football clubs.
A first-person tour of the Crimean peninsula—as it’s being stolen.
The Colombian photographer witnesses the disappearance of the Portuguese village of Torre.
Xaq Frohlich visits Valencia during Fallas, a colorful festival that marks the arrival of spring.
Philosopher Simon Critchley on the spectacle, poetry and importance of professional football
A century ago, a hero rose up from the Ukrainian heartland who fought for neither east nor west.
Lola Akinmade Åkerström went north—far north—in search of the real meaning of the Aurora Borealis.
Justin Fashanu was a rugged English striker and the first black soccer player to be traded for a million pounds. He was also openly gay.
How the Russian LGBT Sports Federation is trying to hold an event for people who aren’t supposed to exist.
A landscape photographer explores the outskirts of Moscow in a new book called "Pastoral."
A historic upset, a heart-breaking relocation, and a fan-fuelled revolution: the improbable history of AFC Wimbledon.
Why does the place with the world’s best café culture have no coffee culture?
Eerie and beautiful portraits of sleeping sunbathers on the Baltic Sea coast
Welcome to the dangerous, poetic world of forcados, Portuguese bullwrestlers.
Once again, Afro-European players are making Europe reexamine its identity.
Your complete survival guide to the Catalan capital.
One major difference between the Euromaidan street uprising in Kiev and the ones that kickstarted Arab Spring: it's freezing out here.
Howard Chua-Eoan meets up with leaders of the Russian LGBT Sport Federation in the run-up to the Sochi Olympics
Glasgow’s storied Rangers Football Club was gutted last year. Where does that leave the fans of its oldest and only rival?
Balaklava, a small town by the sea in the Crimean Peninsula, was closed to the outside world for more than 30 years because of its top secret submarine…
Heroes of the Neighborhood: Can an uneven second-division club save Hamburg’s leftist St. Pauli district?
As Berlin became more corporate, the old artist colonies were evicted. But a new wave of squatters, like the Bulgarian Roma whose domestic lives are the subject of…
In Catalonia, booming local microbrews are just another way for people to express their independence.
Bourbon and brisket, pork jowl and picklebacks: London is diving deep into barbecue at the moment, and Pitt Cue Co’s Tom Adams is in the middle of it…
Photographer Jimmy Nelson immortalizes the world's last remaining tribes before it's too late, hoping to change their minds about modernization in the process.
By photographing the site of every murder that occurred in London over a two year period, a Mexican-born photographer presents an alternative portrait of the city he calls…
Travelling to the heart of the Holy See for libations and for the more Catholic sense of ‘spirit.’
Columnist Howard Chua-Eoan talks independence and Castilian nomenclature in Barcelona with legendary chef Ferran Adrià
An excerpt from The Interloper: Lee Harvey Oswald Inside the Soviet Union by Peter Savodnik.
Unearthing Italy's most lavish ingredient with the help of a $40,000 dog, a camo-clad hunter, and one of America's most famous chefs
At the Saharna Monastery in Northern Moldova, a weekly exorcism casts out all the demons except the ones that really matter.
Lola Akinmade Åkerström on the deeply Swedish ideal of lagom.
Howard Chua-Eoan travels to Copenhagen to the world's most fearless food festival.
The last days of the Doukhobors: a special dispatch from Sonia Smith
Why McDonald’s has become an unexpected defender of local taste.
Howard Chua-Eoan meets an old friend and a dessert that tells stories of gold, and greed, and tragedy
A month spent babysitting children at a refugee center in Belgium quickly turns to long stretches of tedium punctuated by moments of extreme culture shock
On the silty shore of eastern England, oysters once bloomed in their millions. Now hungry diners may be their only hope.
A photographer explores Lithuania's village discos
Moscow chef Ivan Shishkin on eating, and cooking, Andalucia
A Dutch photographer explores ethnicity and identity... by opening kitchen cupboards
A nostalgic tour of Warsaw's milk bars, the communist-era eateries that are struggling to find their place in the new, posh Poland
A money-saving, sanity-preserving, pleasure-maximizing guide to Denmark
Chloe Borkett photographs the daily life of Britain's Gypsies and Irish Travelers.
Nathan Deuel's troubled encounters with high-bred Scots followed by incredible Fruits de Mer in an Edinburgh district better known for knifecrime than razor clams
Thomas Dworzak talks about his obsession with the little things in Instagram
Coke dealers, meta hipsters and the gods of indie rock: A night at Barcelona's Primavera Sound
This year's Tbilisi Photo Festival is a referendum on the soul of Georgia. Q&A with Nestan Nijaradze.
An Israeli photographer visits the prisons of Ukraine and Russia.
An excerpt from Matt Gross' The Turk Who Loved Apples
In 1927, a Parisian newspaper first reported on Ilya Ivanov’s attempts to inseminate women with chimpanzee sperm. The Institute he founded is still active in the forgotten land…
To understand the chefs behind the newly-crowned best restaurant in the world, start with a meal at their parents' restaurant
The story of Rustam Daudov, Chechen teen hero
An excerpt from Oliver Bullough's fantastic new book, The Last Man in Russia
His brother may be the most famous chef in the world, but Albert has carved out his own kingdom in Barcelona
Federo Motos is a farmer, a cave dweller and a master of migas, the humble creation of Spanish shepherds
A Dutch trio of coffee enthusiasts prove that the future of coffee looks an awful lot like its past
For one week every March, Russians emerge from hibernation in search of music, dance, and piles of pancakes
A Q&A with photographer Natela Grigalashvili about her stunning new work, Georgian ABC
Searching for identity, and a seat that actually bolts to the floor, on Armenia's fabled marshrutka minivans
A long walk through the Luberon Valley, in search of the soul of Provence
You've survived Mayan prophesy. Now survive our year-end listicle.
Inside the workshop of a caganer craftsman
The shitting figurine has been a staple of the holiday season in Catalonia for over 300 years
A world-class meal on the cheap, plus a goatskin tsabouna tune played by half the town’s total population. Welcome to San Michalis.
One American's attempt to cook a traditional Thanksgiving feast for a crew of Europeans
How did one of the world's best bars end up in a country with so little love for beer?
One man's decade-long pursuit for perfect paella wasn't always the delicious journey he expected
How one very famous restaurant is changing the cuisine, image, and even economy of an entire country
We make the rookie mistakes so you don't have to
Photographer Louise te Poele returns home to photograph the farmers she knew as a child. An R&K interview about her controversial work.
An inside look at the creative sessions that fuel the Copenhagen superstar
What 5 hours, 26 courses, and $902.47 worth of food and booze looks like
How the most-hyped restaurant in the world manages to exceed expectations
Can a country be both a treasure trove for tourists and an economic and political disaster? An adopted son explores
Billionaire Georgian politician Bidzina Ivanishvili breaks bread with our friend Paul Rimple
Writer Nemonie Craven is a tourist in the land of drinking, debt and desire that is her hometown
Forget Princess Kate's topless pics: the real raunch is in northwest Britain's bachelorette party capitol, Blackpool.
Street photographer Dougie Wallace's ode to the glories of human bodies in bodies of water.
The sites, bites, and characters that make Palermo one of the most under-appreciated cities in the world
A ludicrous search for answers about Penn State, in the Sicilian city of Paternò
Aftermath of the Pussy Riot trial: church and state mix at their own peril in Moscow.
Redder than a fire truck, sweeter than a mother's love, the Pachino tomato holds the secret to Sicilian cuisine
In the poor neighborhood where Mario Balotelli was born, immigrant kids play out their own dreams of football fame on an asphalt schoolyard pitch.
Roads & Kingdoms' last evening in Sicily, featuring fretting Germans, nocturnal bambini, feuding Sicilians and what seems to be a Hobbit selling hashish
Few cultures know how to gild the lily quite like the Sicilians. Three island-wide examples of delicious excess
Corleone, still trading on the fictions of the Godfather series, was nonetheless home to a very real, very murderous mafia. Plus: just two hotels, one of them quite…
Big beach belly, Matt stuffed with brioche that is stuffed with ice cream, and Corleone country on fire, all set to bombastic bangra beats
Two Americans, a dozen Sicilians and a four-hour al fresco dinner in the coastal village of Ribera
From beach to mountain, notes on road-tripping through Sicily
Roads & Kingdoms goes to Sicily in search of the early roots of American food and culture. Now you can participate.
A crumbling, colonnaded mashup of Havana, Rome and Tunis, Catania offers a glimpse of real—sometimes too real—Sicilian city life
Anchovies, eels, urchins, swordfish and early-morning smokers slinging their wares in Piazza Carlo Alberto
Cheesy, savory and red as a firetruck, one of Sicily's most iconic pastas bears a striking resemblance to a staple back home
Rooftops, swordfish, emigration, horsemeat, tourists, purple kryptonite and one spectacular island: R&K's first four days in Sicily
Day Two in Sicily. Dispatches from a gorgeous island with a troubled history, in the Aeolian Islands.
A day in jetty-jumping, family-fighting, German-jostling, pasta-pounding Cefalú
A journey through the melancholic breakaway republic of Abkhazia
Nazi, Elf, Sniper, Orc: Christina Molbech's photos of the faces of Danish larp
Boffer battles, waterboarding, and child Nazis: Nathan Thornburgh visits the dark, deep world of Live Action Role Playing in Denmark
Video of Roads & Kingdoms' first interview with a head of state: Kosovo's Prime Minister Hashim Thaçi
The "micro-nation" of Christiania has stood in the center of Copenhagen for 40 years. On July 1st, it's being sold.
Tanja Fox grew up in Christiania, she raised her kids there. Now she's helping sell it, one share at a time.
Defenders of a beautiful, bruised backwater republic want you to see their land the way they do
The first time I drank a gin tonic, a real gin tonic, it was three in the morning in an old converted castle in the tiny town of…
In Peru, R&K tracked down the rising star behind Lima London. Video report from Virgilio Martinez's Central Restaurant
The Weed Pass isn't nearly as awesome as it sounds. Actually, it's (yet another) (ill-fated) attempt to target Holland's coffee shops. R&K video from Amsterdam
Eating the world's best oyster on the boat of an oysterman who doesn't eat oysters
Farmer Søren Wiulff is part of the reason why Noma remains the world's best restaurant. R&K visited his world of wild vegetables in the Lammafjørd, Denmark
A U.N. report released last month named Denmark the world's happiest country. R&K hit the streets to find out what happiness means to the Danes.
AOC is cooking some of the most exciting food in the world's hottest eating city. R&K gives you the blow-by-blow
Denmark's open-face sandwich is an evolutionary key, something between entrée and sandwich, a fish that walks on flippers.
When we heard that a battle between 200 Danish school children would be taking place in the forest just outside of Copenhagen, we wanted in.
Denmark may be better known for pickled fish than for emulsified meatstuffs, but it warms the heart to see the love of a good tubesteak is alive and…
Matt and Nathan are spending the week in Denmark reporting on food culture, counter-culture and everything in between. An added bonus: dinner at the best restaurant in the…
Acclaimed author Oliver Bullough talks with street vendors and presidents about adjika, the national condiment of Abkhazia.
The blueprint for outdoor bliss, no matter where you decide to spread your blanket
In the wake of last night's Best Restaurants in the World announcement, we offer a taste from the "second best restaurant in the world"
For the third year running, Noma has been crowned the best restaurant in the world. Roads and Kingdoms has a dinner date with the champ next week.
Mountains of grilled onions, sauce stained to your cheeks, cava in your belly: It must be springtime in Spain.
An interview with Zach Goldman about his run-in with Turkish counter-intelligence.
Tejo Bar in Lisbon, where there is nothing borrowed about the melancholy
Metal skies loom over gargoyles and ironwork: who needs sun in the City of Light?
Uncovering the secret sauce at Le Relais de Venise, a Parisian Steak Frites powerhouse
A plate of the world's best vodka chaser, from Salekhard on the Arctic Circle
After six weeks on the road, Matt finds Barcelona deep in strikes and rioting
After all that blood and salt and fallen acorn, finally a taste.
In a matter of 90 minutes, every quaint stereotype that I held about the Germans crumbles like an overbaked Bavarian pretzel.
This is the tough part, but if you want to make ham, you have to spill some blood.
When the acorns stop falling, pigs start dying. And thus begins our tale.
Most men think they were born to grill, but Victor Arguinonziz has smoke and fire in his DNA.
These potatoes barely register on the Scoville scale, but damn are they delicious.
These beauties come from one of the main thoroughfares in Bruges, where tourists make easy prey for any Belgian with a waffle iron.
What started out as a lifeline has turned into a routine: squid, eggs, bread, cava.
Eating dumplings with a People's Liberation Army paratrooper in Nanjing.
Imeretians form it in a circle, Ossetians add potatoes, the Svaneti add greens. But Adjarian Khachapuri is as it should be: a song of salt, of milk, of…
What’s it like being in a city that’s been dead as long as you’ve been alive?
I died as a mineral and became a plant / I died as plant and rose to animal / I died as animal and I was Man /…
Ivan Shishkin—journalist, photographer, chef and raconteur—makes a delicious a multiple course feast in Moscow.
This: a plate of perfectly grilled fresh calamari with chili oil for dipping. Thank you, Istanbul.