THE R&K INSIDER HAS EXCLUSIVES ON WHERE OUR CORRESPONDENTS TRAVEL, WHAT THEY EAT, WHERE THEY STAY. FREE TO SIGN UP, UNSUBSCRIBE AT ANY TIME
No posts matched the filter you selected. Try viewing all posts.
How a trash heap in Thailand became the scene of a philanthropic turf war
Burying the bodies of Kurdish fighters fallen in neighboring Syria reopens old wounds in the heartland of Turkish Kurdistan.
How a savory rice and meat dish remains a fragile thread between modern Sri Lanka and 16th century Dutch Burgher settlers.
Superagent Sheng Li wants to bring Hollywood-style talent management to Chinese sports.
A Diary of Fifteen Days on a Cargo Ship
In the depth of Azerbaijan's earth boils a holy fire that has shaped the country's history and people for millennia.
An ambitious program is bringing modern tech to Mongolia’s 800,000-strong nomadic population.
The story of a working class immigrant family and a changing city.
This stretch of pristine sand beach in Sri Lanka is a tourist’s dream. But as Marco Ferrarese discovers, it also has a dark side.
A photographer takes family portraits in the surreal environment that is the aftermath of war.
A Troubled Region in Turkey, a Missing Climber, and the Elusive Quest for Noah’s Ark
The Alevis, Turkey’s largest religious minority, have been persecuted for centuries. Will the fallout from the war in Syria only make things worse?
Putting it all on horse number four at the Chiang Mai race track.
Two decades after being labeled the most dangerous place on earth, Kashmir is seeking redemption and entreating foreign tourists to return
At a camp for displaced persons in Afghanistan, one musician finds hope in traditional music.
Syria is in the fourth year of war, but its Kurdish population has refused to side with anyone but themselves. Does their democratic “third revolution” stand a chance?
Since 2007, Hawre Khalid has been photographing his hometown of Kirkuk in Northern Iraq, a multicultural place where Arabs, Kurds, Turkmen, Christians and foreign workers live together.
A controversial new film reimagines Indian-held Kashmir as the backdrop for Shakespeare’s troubled prince.
Meet Rob, who sells weed and ketamine to an eager audience of expats in Beijing. His only problem? The police are cracking down.
Photographer Michael Magers spends an afternoon diving for urchin with the incredible women divers—many of them in the 60s and older—of Mie Prefecture.
A homegrown Iraqi photo agency is telling stories no one else can
After years in Cairo, photographer Amanda Mustard captures the unusual culture of Hong Kong's 'Polite Protests' - from umbrellas and water to haircuts and card games.
A Nepalese tourism behemoth invites journalist James McGirk for a trip to the region where he grew up.
For centuries, the curved Dha was the sword of choice for the warriors of southeast Asia. In a small foundry in northeast Thailand, the art of making them lives on.
Nablus remains a forbidden zone to most Israelis. But its tahini and other foods remain a highly sought-after commodity.
In advance of this year’s hajj, a look back to 1952 and the unusual airlift that brought pilgrims to Saudi Arabia in U.S. military transport planes.
Bamiyan, a small Afghan mountain town best known for its blown-up Buddhas, wants to be your next holiday destination.
I set out to write an honest profile of Shahid Kapoor, one of India’s biggest stars. His fans may never forgive me.
A prominent cleric in Western China is stabbed to death after morning prayers, but his city does not mourn him.
The Indian photographer explores the human cost of pollution in the world's fastest-growing economy.
Morocco’s Gnawa Music Festival is a melee of dreadlocks and drumbeats. Lots of hash and condoms, too.
After Russia’s takeover of Crimea, a famous rave relocates to an increasingly conservative country, the Republic of Georgia.
Boston-born songwriter and poet Arto Vaun travels to Beirut to find a deeper truth about a relative he never met.
If you want to get close to regular North Koreans, forget Pyongyang. Try the beach resort of Wonsan, where Dear Leader’s people frolic in the surf.
At the Twice Bar in Bali, the crowd is local and the rock is very, very hard.
As a five-year-old boy, Sam Dreiman saw first hand the two sides of the melancholic funnyman during a chance encounter at a hotel in Morocco.
As Hiroshima remembers its dead, Tokyo envisions new ways to play the shellgame that is modern warmaking.
Guillermo Rigondeaux had so many amateur medals that he melted a couple down to make some gold teeth. It doesn’t get much fiercer than that. So why can’t he get a proper fight?
A photographer visits the biggest ice and snow festival in the world to explore contemporary China.
This Tatar festival with pre-Islamic roots marking the summer solstice in central Russia’s Volga region has towel wrestling, pillow fights and tickle-monsters.
Last year, two young Jewish Americans began leading educational tours of the troubled Palestinian territory. But their ambitions are bigger than a bus trip.
A journey to Bangladesh’s Sundarbans, the world’s largest contiguous mangrove forest, where rising waters threaten the future of a fragile environment.
India, long an importer of sports, finally has one to send out to the rest of the world: roll ball, the bastard child of rollerskating and basketball.
The remote Pakistani desert of Achro Thar may not have much, but as the Dr. Haathi Singh and his famed camel ambulance prove, there’s ingenuity and kindness aplenty.
Only recently released from the rule of the military junta, Myanmar is struggling to hold its varying ethnic and religious groups together.
In the highlands around Mumbai, practitioners of Mallakhamb perform curious acrobatic feats using poles, ropes… and castor oil.
On a mission to lose weight and get in shape, journalist Jeremy “Lion Heart” Hartley found himself squaring off in a Muay Thai bout. It wasn’t pretty.
Thailand’s Full Moon Party is debauched, depraved, and increasingly deadly. If only it were fun.
India’s Pardhis are poor outcasts—and the country’s finest tiger hunters. Some are now helping authorities track down the poachers in their midst.
One man is doing his best to keep rock alive—and inclusive—in Malaysia’s outlier island-state
Pakistani attitudes about home cooking are changing as a growing middle class finds a plethora of food delivery options online.
After decades of bloodshed, Kurdish villagers in oil-rich northern Iraq are waging a new battle against Exxon Mobil.
As MMA takes hold in China, many old masters worry the country’s traditional fighting style is dying. But they’re missing a golden opportunity.
FC Alga Bishkek was once one of the best teams in Soviet Central Asia. But in the post-Soviet age, the club—much like Kyrgyzstan itself—is mired in the nostalgia of better times.
French winemaker Jean-Marc Brignot relocated to a former penal colony in the Sea of Japan for a simple reason: he wanted to be free.
Five years after the Sri Lankan Army killed the Tamil Tiger leader, his most ardent supporters refuse to believe Velupillai Prabhakaran is dead.
Fueled by Bangladesh's construction boom, the stone trade in Jaflong is brutalizing humans and nature alike.
Photographer Olaf Schuelke happens upon an illegal punk rock concert in Yangon.
Strange days at Bangkok's Business Day newspaper
An Iranian photographer revisits her country's tragic past with a series of dramatic photographs that recreate moments that changed Iran’s history.
How a raucous, festive dish created by four Heavenly Kings conquered a country obsessed with eating.
Ten years ago, Saddam Hussein went on trial for crimes against humanity. Meet the Kurd who outfitted him.
Nathan Deuel with a boozy, turbulent tour of his two decades on board national air carriers, from Aeroflot to Royal Air Cambodge.
Australia has a popular new top-flight soccer league, but is it in danger of forgetting the ethnic fans and clubs who built the sport in the country?
Just 130 km (80 miles) east of Kathmandu, the Indigenous People’s Trail is a world away from the pizza parlors and crowded guest houses of Nepal’s capital.
Writer Will Philipps takes part in the Pyongyang marathon, in the first year the Hermit Kingdom has opened the race to foreign amateur runners.
It’s dark and rich, with that trademark sludge at the bottom of the cup. But in a part of the world where rivalries run deep, everyone has their own name for Turkish coffee.
Rachel Williamson on the efforts of a group of artists and activists trying to restore an apartment from the golden age of Egyptian cinema.
Like much else in China, soccer has developed rapidly and attracted huge investment, but a fan culture has developed that is independent of—and sometimes a challenge to—the state.
The hospital conditions are appalling, but a bigger reason may be the crumbling infrastructure that prevents the poor from getting the care they need.
n Dhaka, a wave of new groups are setting the crowded madness of their city to music with tech-death, thrashcore and other forms of extreme metal
As Muay Thai's popularity grows, a rare wave of foreign fighters have made their way to Thailand.
All the way from Toronto, an unlikely evangelist for the most Burmese of pastimes: chinlone, the wicker-ball hackey-sack dance-sport.
What better way to celebrate Turkey's farcical crackdown on Twitter than by conducting an interview solely through Twitter DM?
How a small eatery just across the Turkish border has become an unexpected oasis for Syria’s refugees.
From a dusty port in Oman to the teeming stalls of Tehran’s Grand Bazaar, a look at how black market cigarettes have become a major part of Iranian life
Dharamsala in the Himalayan foothills may be the most iconic Tibetan town in India, but for an unfiltered glimpse of the real life of the Tibetan exiles, you have to head south to the former…
Hong Kongers are finding inventive ways to grow sweet potatoes, mangoes, and other edible goodies in an urban jungle.
Photographer Andrew Stanbrige attends the Taungbyone Nat Festival in Burma, where ladyboys reenact the lives of two brothers slain centuries ago.
From the remnants of his family’s shuttered distillery, one man makes a name for himself in Japan’s soaring whisky industry
A photographer documents what may be the last generation of the Bajau sea nomads.
How a town in cricket-mad Pakistan became the center of the global soccer ball industry
For more than 500 years, the Bishnoi people have been following their founder's admonition to protect the environment at all costs
A look at Sittwe, Myanmar, in the aftermath of violence against Rohingya Muslims
Cambodia punk rockers: The Southeast Asian country is home to a new hardcore music scene.
One of Tokyo's coffee kings calls it quits after 38 years pursuing perfection
Christian ritual takes many shapes around the world. In Myanmar, it means animal sacrifice.
The struggle to remind the world of what happened in Nanjing in 1937. From photographer Amanda Mustard.
Can a controversial bodybuilder finally win Burma the respect that it craves?
An old photograph in his grandparent's home in Calcutta had long intrigued Sugato Mukherjee. Twenty-five years later, he finally got to see Ladakh for himself.
Fighting tradition: the life of Yim Phala, 17, a female Pradal Serey kickboxer in Cambodia.
Photographer Jonathan Saruk explores the world of Kabul's cinemas in his upcoming book.
North Korea has its own restaurant chain. It’s good, even if the sea cucumber liquor and dog casserole are overpriced.
The subcontinent’s vineyards want to turn India into a South Asian Tuscany, but can wine survive in a land of brown liquor?
What a search for one of the US’s most-wanted Afghan financiers can tell us about life after war in Afghanistan.
When the police and protesters clashed around Istanbul's Gezi park, an unlikely alliance of football rivals banded together. But will politics continue in the new league season?
Can the United Nations save something as intangible as a cooking style?
From dodging falling bullets to breaking bread with Afghanistan's national soccer team, May Jeong has the complete story of the remarkable run of a beleaguered nation.
May Jeong reports from the Kabul Dairy Union, where the milk is good and the Taliban is involved
The "god of football", as local papers called him, arrived on Indian soil for a friendly at Salt Lake Stadium. But where will the beautiful game go from there in India?
Photographer Laurent Zylberman's stunning book on the complexities of Tibet is coming out in English.
A handful of young photographers offer a rare glimpse at the inside spaces of life in Iran.
Matt Goulding on why he loves airline cuisine (and why you should, too)
SB Tang braves the wrath of one of Penang's most controversial hawkers to eat a Malaysian street-food masterpiece.
The Sri Lankan Army Brutally Crushed a Separatist Movement. Now They Want You to Stay At Their Luxury Resort.
Abu Hassan serves legendary hummus in a country that worships the dish.
Howard Chua-Eoan takes the pilgrimage from Manila to the shrine of Virgin Mary in Manaog
Why Central Asian cuisine will win the future.
Eating through Singapore, Bangkok and Saigon, in search of the soul of street food
Zou Shiming boxing in Macau: Can China’s premier fighter and a former Portuguese outpost save the sport?
Photographer John Wreford, forced out of his home in Damascus, returns to Syria to visit the sprawling refugee camp in Atmeh
In defense of spending one's days chewing the mildly narcotic khat leaf
Correspondent Mathew Scott is stuck in an interminable series of delays at Dongsheng Airport in Inner Mongolia.
What do you get when you mix a Chechen, a bottle of Stolichnaya, and a thick stew of meat and garlic?
When Yemen's Jews came to Israel in the massive airlift of '49-'50, they brought something vital with them: z'hug chili sauce
As global temperatures rise, the one winter path into the Himalayan Buddhist kingdom of Zanskar slowly vanishes
Our anonymous correspondent on the intimate ties between Karachiites and the dubious men who supply them with illegal alcohol
The Kheer Bhawani festival starts Monday in Kashmir. But the Hindu Pandits who celebrate it are still mostly in exile from violence. Can they truly return? Do they even want to? A deep look at…
Murghab in Tajikistan's Pamir mountains: a desolate crossroads between the fading Soviet empire and the emerging power of China
The head-and-leg stew knowns as khash is a source of pride, history and patrimony in Azerbaijan
Jon Rosen travels to the Wagah border to witness the daily parade that marks the standoff between India and Pakistan
The iconic Shezan mango drink will tell you everything you need to know about the impossibility of a truly good outcome in tomorrow's Pakistani elections
The meaty, brothy Yemeni stew is comfort food in times of peace and war
In the brutalized city of Aleppo, magical realism is far preferable to actual reality of war
Chicken rice, the world's most complex simple food.
From Lahore, on the virtues of selling pista badaam and kulfi ice cream instead of Cookies n' Cream
John Wreford goes shopping for bread and cheese in the encroaching war zone that is Damascus, Syria
On the road in Vietnam with one of the world's most famous close-up magicians
At the block party (for 250,000 people) thrown by one of Karachi's most notorious crime syndicates
The unmaking of a goat in Terelj, Mongolia. WARNING! Graphic content
Brett Forrest travels to the farthest reaches of Mongolia to eat goat the Genghis Khan way
In holy Rishikesh, India, the quiche is eggless, the spliffs are giant, and the destination is ultimately the Self.
How Karachi is like a plate of Leather Jacket, a dish of unexpected charms from the seafood emporium Biryani of the Seas
Seven steps to ringing in the Mongolian New Year
The burger may have a foothold in Pakistan, but on the streets of Karachi, the beloved bun kebab reigns supreme
Photographer Dougie Wallace goes inside Mumbai's famed Padmini taxi fleet
Acclaimed photographer Newsha Tavakolian talks to Roads & Kingdoms about her new exhibition in Tehran
In Pakistan, nothing cuts through class, creed, and politics quicker than a cup of tea
Thirteen correspondents from around the world describe what Christmas means and looks like from Kabul to Buenos Aires
Without this guide, you'll be confused, broke and hobbled with food poisoning within hours of your arrival. Read up.
Forget "Twitter war": on the ground, the only technology that really matters is the kind that kills
After the preacher’s mic switches off and the congregation is exhausted from the exertion of their flagellation, the men and women of Karachi adjourn. It is time to eat haleem.
Why Obama's visit to Myanmar is premature. An R&K report from the Kachin civil war
Saiful Huq Omi's incredible photography of the Rohingya, one of the world's most persecuted minorities.
Photographer Stephen Dupont's intimate portrait of the Raskols, a band of young, fierce, complicated gangsters from Papua New Guinea
Horse blood, raw frozen fish, reindeer stir-fry: It's what's for dinner in the coldest place on earth
We talk with the force behind Legal Nomads, about the wisdom of taxi drivers and the dangers of llama empanadas
Correspondent Nathan Deuel walks his Beirut neighborhood during Friday prayers in search of true believers and True Burger Lovers®
Photos from Cambodia's Crab Coast and the waterfront village of Kep
In a city of rules and strictures, an unexpected trend has taken flight: unlicensed private kitchens. Our correspondent visits one of the best.
Many countries claim fish sauce, but Naomi Duguid has a compelling theory about the origins of Southeast Asia's most important ingredient
With the Vietnam War escalating, Naomi Duguid falls deeply in love with fish sauce, in France of all places. The origins of a lifelong obsession
Adjika, the chili paste shared by mortal enemies Abkhazia and Georgia, may be the world's most controversial sauce. Oliver Bullough logs Part II in the Clash of the Condiments
With the help of one of our heroes, Naomi Duguid, we discover how to make the food one of the best parts of any trip to Burma.
Photos behind the scenes of Bangkok's Ratchadamnoen Stadium, with its Muay Thai mix of bookies, western gawkers and desperate fighters with names like "Hyper Battle Cyborg" or "The Turbine from Hell"
Jason Gagliardi on his three urban love affairs and bitter bust-ups: Brisbane, Hong Kong and Bangkok
To mark Burma's big elections, R&K remembers the scene of the Lady's meeting with Hillary Clinton
Samantha Kuok Leese, on returning to the family farm outside Crookwell for the first time in years
Vietnam runs on ca phe sua da, rocket fuel for the body and soul.
In this sweaty stew of dissidence and reclining Buddhas, hip-hop is king. R&K hangs with one of Burma's most famous MCs.
Hong Kong, as seen through the flaring lens of Liam Fitzpatrick/Black Bauhinia
Al fresco in Rangoon with the acclaimed cookbook author
And then, in one email, Oscar announced that he would physically be leaving the island for Beijing, China, for a year-long stint as the house band of a place called Casa Latina.
Talking freedom and Occupy Wall Street outside Aung San Suu Kyi's house
In the new Myanmar, even beater cars can cost $30,000 or more.
Shrimp paste, purple kryptonite for white people, is the soul of Burmese cuisine.
This is, ironically, good news for the miners brought in to replace the locals, because the locals are still not allowed to mine, and now the mines won’t be flooded by the dam anytime soon.
Inside the pages of one of the world's most pathetic publications.
Pork, lemongrass, chilies, cilantro: What more could you want?
Dripping with ocean water, gilded with garlic and ginger, these crustaceans make the famous chili crabs of Singapore seem clumsy by comparison.
The concentrated broth is good enough to flood your dome with a rush of umami-triggered endorphins.
Hangovers tremble in fear at the sight of breakfast udon.
The French have their fingerprints all over many of Vietnam’s greatest culinary contributions, including this bowl.
When an Italian pizza master told me Japan is making the best pies in the world, I had no choice but to investigate.
Kaiseki cuisine at its finest, elegant and sophisticated enough to eat in a kimono on a tatami mat, but just willd enough to leave your head spinning.
Seen from one angle, the Burma-U.S. rapprochement is a sign of a bright new future. Step a foot to the side and look again, and it’s a sad little tryst between two countries with, shall…
A visit to the Bethlehem Baptist Church, currently home to almost 100 men, women and children fleeing from the Kachin conflict.
The dry genius of the ADB-ASEAN cost estimate is that it includes estimates for grief and human suffering in the aftermath of an accident. That’s $1,800 in societal grief for every death, $842 for a…
Inevitably when you travel, no matter how far you go or how different the people, your mind looks for parallels between your life and theirs.
Rangoon is still not the easiest destination for anyone, let alone a staunchly conservative burgoo-lover from Louisville on his first trip to the land of shrimp paste. Some tips for Sen. Mitch McConnell's visit to…
Chew Betel, get high a little, spit a lot
For the Western traveler, uninitiated in the deeper contours of Burma’s spiritual eccentricities, Mount Popa really boils down to one thing: misbehaving macques.
Unexpected road-block in Burma: a plate of chili-slathered, rancid crab.
The forlorn little shrines that live and die in the permanent shade of Rangoon's banyans are a particular fascination.
In the forest of herbs there’s a glade, a salted pond, and the duck swims contentedly in it, inside out.
The bad part about Zach Goldman is limited, really, to his peanut allergy, and also to the Giardia he had picked up in Borneo, and how it all had left him looking quite wan and…
Merit, in Myanmar, is that little ledger you add to in order to push yourself further down the path toward liberation.
ROADS & KINGDOMS
R&K on Twitter
R&K on Facebook